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Thread: Trident Police Trike

  1. #11
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    The car battery. Probably needed to support the red lights, siren, radio, etc - lots of extra current draw. Hopefully the stator is OK.

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  2. #12
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    The fairing is off. It's a Pacifico unit and is surprisingly light - only a few pounds. Also removed the seat and the tank. Need to spend some serious time cleaning it out. The petcock is not the original vacuum operated unit; it's a manual unit and is pretty well frozen, most likely filled with the same petrified gunk that's in the tank.

    I discovered that the coolant overflow bottle is cracked but fortunately the PO had acquired a replacement so it's one less part that needs to be purchased.

    I found some electrical "stuff" bundled inside gray fabric bags; one on the front forks (visible in a photo below) and one buried under the seat. I think it's stuff related to the trike conversion. Some research is in order.

    I have been in contact with Larry Cargill who wrote one the the CX500 carb overhaul manuals that Randakk recommends. He will rebuild the carbs for what I consider a reasonable price. Some time within the next week I'll pull the carbs, box them up and send them off.

    Looks like i'll probably be pulling the box of the back of the trike so I can get access to the battery and check out the state of the wiring and brake lines underneath. It will also make access to the grease nipples on the U-joints much easier.

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    FAIRING REMOVED

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    NAKED FRONT END

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    CRACKED COOLANT OVERFLOW BOTTLE

  3. #13
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    I spent the last two days cleaning up the chassis and wiring harness, removing eons of road grime. Also sent the carbs off to Larry Cargill for rebuilding.

    As I was doing some initial cleaning of the gummed up gasoline residue in the tank I discovered that the tank had been lined with Kreem and the lining was loose. In fact, I was able to pull HUGE sheets of Kreem out of the tank with my fingers (see the photos below). So, tomorrow I am taking the tank to a local industrial radiator shop that also works on fuel tanks and will have then properly clean and seal the tank.
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    KREEM LINING. IT'S NOT REALLY ATTACHED.

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    KREEM LINING THAT CAME OUT OF THE TANK


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  5. #14
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    I removed the fiberglass box on the back of the trike to get better access to the rear end. The box was held on with 4 bolts through the frame. It only weighted about 20 lbs max and was easy to get off. There were two wiring harness connectors that had to be unplugged first. They appear to carry the wiring for the rear lights and for the siren - the siren controller is mounted inside the box.

    I also removed the rear bag that enclosed some electrical components. It contained two relays and the controller for the flashing lights.

    Now that the rear box is off, it became apparent the the trike is a hardtail. This explains the small coilovers under the seat. The rear box mounts on a subframe which is sprung on a pair of KYB coilovers. Tracing down the rear brake lines also showed that the hydraulic parking brake only operates on the right rear wheel.

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    THE REAR BOX HAS BEEN REMOVED

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    STRIPPED DOWN TO THE FRAME

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    IT'S A HARDTAIL !!!

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    GRAY BAG CONTAINING RELAYS AND CONTROLLER FOR RED FLASHING LIGHTS

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    PARKING BRAKE CONTROLLER ON RIGHT SIDE (locks right rear wheel)


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  6. #15
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    Just a tease for ya', here is what your carbs will look like when Larry gets done with them. Of course, your style carbs might differ, but not in the way they look.





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  7. #16
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    Larry Cargill called me to acknowledge receipt of the carbs and to tell me that he had never seen any as bad as these. See the pix below. I had told him in advance that the entire fuel system was a horror show and that the trike had been parked outside under a tarp for many years so his comments were no surprise to me. Everything that moves on these carbs is frozen so its going to take some doing for him to bring them back to life. I can hardly wait to hear his comments once he gets them opened up.

    CARBS AFTER REMOVAL

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    Last edited by scootsx2; 11-28-2016 at 08:12 PM.

  8. #17
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    Good Day .. I'm also do'n a trike (Cx500P tread). I caught a glimpse of what appear'd to be a large flywheel on your rear end... can I assume that's reverse. ? My unit has a lighter tubular frame with the small rear end. I think your's is Ford ?... which for brake parts is much easier then the goofy golf cart units ( 7 inch) I have.
    The 12v battery on my unit was mount'd inside the ice cream box... A friend of mine works for a local city.. he wires fire, ambulance and police cars... service their radios etc etc. He's done my other police/fire bikes. I ask'd him to ck into hook'n all lights siren to a purpose use battery (dry).. to avoid stress on the Cx electrical system.
    Can you provide photos of the reverse mechanism ? Thanks, M. Mpls MN

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormike View Post
    Good Day .. I'm also do'n a trike (Cx500P tread). I caught a glimpse of what appear'd to be a large flywheel on your rear end... can I assume that's reverse. ? My unit has a lighter tubular frame with the small rear end. I think your's is Ford ?... which for brake parts is much easier then the goofy golf cart units ( 7 inch) I have.
    ...
    Can you provide photos of the reverse mechanism ? Thanks, M. Mpls MN
    There is indeed a large gear attached to the stub driveshaft that comes out of the differential but there is nothing connected to it. That is, the trike has no reverse mechanism. There may have been at one time. I plan to fabricate a reverse using that gear but it's a project for after I get this thing back on the road. I'm travelling for work this week and can post better photos of the gear and any possible reverse motor mounting points after I get get back.

  10. #19
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    it used a omc starter motor on a bracket to spin that gear i will see if i can dig the pictures up
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  11. #20
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    One more reason for that big battery....

    FWIW, I run a U1 lawn tractor battery on my CX650E based machine for cold weather starting. I prefer a GL1000/1100 stator because it has a little more output than the standard GL500/650 one but unless you are running a lot of extra loads a lot of the time the original stator shouldn't have any problem keeping the bigger battery charged. Whatever size battery you have the alternator only has to replace the power you used for starting and for keeping the lights on when you are idling at a stop sign or traffic light and the alternator's out isn't enough to keep up. If you have any doubts add a voltmeter and charge the battery whenever the voltage is lower than normal while you are driving.

    Just a thought: I wonder if that gear for the reverse could be used to drive a car alternator to supplement the original one?
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