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Thread: Trident Police Trike

  1. #21
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    bob

    some of the mci police trikes had a supplemental gm self regulating alternator belt drive off the drive shaft in addition to the gear drive reverse

    i dont know if they were useful just running around town but i can see where it would be a asset on the highway or freeways

    i always wondered what it would be like to fit a belt driven starter generator like a 12 hp kohler has to provide reverse and charging

    but i have not gotten around to that experiment yet
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  2. #22
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    I don't expect many meter maid trikes spent a lot of time on highways but if it was geared right it could have enough output to help even at in town speeds. It wouldn't do anything when it is needed most but the big battery would act as a buffer until it was moving again.

    The idea of a starter/generator for reverse & supplemental charging sounds good. I wonder if something like that would be possible on a sidecar? I read about someone who added a ring gear to the rear wheel of a GoldWing to use a starter motor for reverse but it was at least a decade ago and I don't remember the details.
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  3. #23
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    If you're using a generator to power the bike in reverse, you could run it the opposite way to provide a power boost to provide better launches. You could do electric assisted wheelies!



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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidecar Bob View Post
    One more reason for that big battery....

    FWIW, I run a U1 lawn tractor battery on my CX650E based machine for cold weather starting. I prefer a GL1000/1100 stator because it has a little more output than the standard GL500/650 one but unless you are running a lot of extra loads a lot of the time the original stator shouldn't have any problem keeping the bigger battery charged. Whatever size battery you have the alternator only has to replace the power you used for starting and for keeping the lights on when you are idling at a stop sign or traffic light and the alternator's out isn't enough to keep up. If you have any doubts add a voltmeter and charge the battery whenever the voltage is lower than normal while you are driving.

    Just a thought: I wonder if that gear for the reverse could be used to drive a car alternator to supplement the original one?
    Aren't you also on the NGW board? One of my other rides is a GL1000-based sidecar outfit.

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    Last edited by scootsx2; 11-29-2016 at 05:32 PM.

  6. #25
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    Yep. A few of us are on both this forum & NGW.
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  7. #26
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    Today I received the carbs back from Larry Cargill. I don't think he understood the intensity of the horror show that is this bike's fuel system. Direct quote "... this set has been the most problematic set I have ever encountered in the 10 years I've rebuilding these carbs." It's not just a horror show, it's a double feature horror show.

    Long story short, Mr. Cargill performed magic and then some. These carbs look like they are from a new bike. I'll reinstall them after I get the electrical system working sufficiently to crank the engine and get spark... probably some time in the next 2 or 3 weeks.

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    The gas tank is out at a local industrial radiator shop that also works on fuel tanks. They made similar comments about the tank (see the previous photos of the tank). They estimate getting the tank back to me on or around 23 December.

    I started work on the electrical system. The battery was history so it became a core trade-in for a new battery. Sidepost batteries currently available have screw-in terminals instead of heavy lugs so I changed the ends on the battery cables. Then started working my way further into the electrical system. Discovered two starter solenoids on the bike; the "normal" solenoid for the starter and a 2nd solenoid that had a very lightweight wire, perhaps 16 AWG, on it's output terminal. I have no idea what this is for yet - maybe something for the trike conversion. There is corrosion everywhere in the electrical system. The cable connectors don't seem to be too bad but I may replace a few if the terminals appear burned or loose. I sourced a replacement ignition switch because the original one was frozen. Also picked up a new fuel petcock (the old one was petrified), ordered a replacement starter solenoid because I don't trust the original to be reliable (see photo below) and a replacement for one of the spark plug boots. The internal resistor was frozen in position. I managed to loosen it a bit by soaking with Kroil but there appears to be no spring tension behind the resistor. Last thing I need is an intermittent connection in the ignition. Later this weekend I'll pull the coil packs and check them over and also work on freeing up the throttle grip on the handlebars. It's a real shame that the PO didn't store this bike properly.
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    Last edited by scootsx2; 12-10-2016 at 07:40 PM.
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  8. #27
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    You could have done the "brass rod conversion" to the plug caps and switched to resistor plugs too.
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  9. #28
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    I did the brass rod conversion when I switched to Iridium plugs in my sidecar outfit. I may yet do that on this trike but you still need the spring behind the brass rod to maintain secure contact.

  10. #29
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    Yep. The spring from an old retractable ball pen will work...
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  11. #30
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    The twist grip and right handlebar switch cluster were pretty well frozen up from corrosion. I removed them to work on the switch cluster in my shop and to replace the throttle tube.

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    The trike didn't come with an ignition switch key so I replaced the ignition switch with a Taiwan clone part. I had to remove the instrument cluster to get access to the ignition switch. One of the two mounting bolts sheared off with little effort applied (may have already been stressed) even though I had soaked them for a l-o-n-g time with Kroil. Damned corrosion again. I'll drill it out and retap the hole.

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    I also pulled the coil pack. Preliminary inspection shows a small crack at the base of one of the coils. The crack shows up white in the photo due to the flash. It's a crack, not a scratch. Hopefully I can get enough spark to fire up the engine in the next couple of weeks. I'll keep an eye out for a replacement coil. Sealing the crack with epoxy would be a half-assed solution since it would seal in any corrosion and/or moisture.

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    Last edited by scootsx2; 12-11-2016 at 03:46 PM.

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