1980 CX500 R café racer build project - Page 2
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Thread: 1980 CX500 R café racer build project

  1. #11
    Senior Member big1000's Avatar
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    Performed the stator test, here are the results:

    1/5- 112
    2/5- 92
    3/5- 92
    4/5- 193
    6/5- 93
    7/5- 207
    9/5- 325
    9/8- 81

    A/B- SHORT
    B/C- SHORT
    C/A- SHORT

    A/G- INFINITY
    B/G- INFINITY
    C/G- INFINITY

    second and third parts were good, but the test results showed the following:

  2. #12
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    I have the exact same thing you describe when reaching a certain rpm in top gear. Also noticed one cilinderhead is significantly cooler than the other one after a ride. I also hoped it would be a carb issue since I've been reading the cx500 carbs can be prone to clotting etc.

    I have my block totally free and stripped of paint and I am also contemplating wether to break her open or just leave it. Also could not verify if the distribution chain has been changed or not, I heard it was a "thing" on these models.

    Anyway, good luck! I will be following your progression.

  3. #13
    Senior Member big1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vetje View Post

    I have my block totally free and stripped of paint and I am also contemplating wether to break her open or just leave it. Also could not verify if the distribution chain has been changed or not, I heard it was a "thing" on these models.

    Anyway, good luck! I will be following your progression.
    Thank you

    I think it just means you need your carbs cleaned, or you may need to do the stator test.

    I figured I would pop the heads off of the block since I had such low compression. The compression isnt just magically going to go back up from painting the engine! So I got the heads popped off today, and was able to take a look inside. Im not really sure what to look for inside the cylinders, cross hatching maybe? Everything looks like it could use a good cleaning, but I didnt see anything obviously wrong... Hoping I can slap some piston rings on it and be good to go!

    made some progress this morning which felt REALLY good. I've been busy with work so I've just been thinking a lot about what to do with the engine, and not actually doing anything. The heads are off and all of the parts are neatly organized in labeled bags. No problems at all removing the parts today. On a side note, I'll be selling a bunch of stuff- carbs, exhaust, fenders, things like that. All functional parts.

    Before the morning teardown:



    After:



    Heads:





    Block:

    Last edited by big1000; 09-03-2016 at 04:23 PM.

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  5. #14
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    Thanks for sharing your progress... I have a similar bike and following your work with interest
    Cx500C 1980 aussie spec - my daily ride
    CX500c 1981 USA spec - my restore project
    GL400 1985 JAP import - total revamp in progress
    Looking for a nice CX500A or B in RED as a keeper

  6. #15
    Senior Member big1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Thanks for sharing your progress... I have a similar bike and following your work with interest
    Thanks buddy. I was feeling way in over my head today, but I know its gonna work out. Im just hoping not to spend a fortune on gaskets. Right now I'm thinking I may order some seals and gaskets from ebay, and throw away the head gaskets. Just ordered the OEM gaskets from partzilla.

    I want to lap the valves, I've heard from poking around in here that compression can be increased this way. Anyone know how much it costs to send the heads in to have them machined and lapped?

  7. #16
    OCR
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    If you note the difference in the amount of carbon build up on the heads you can see that one is way rich.
    This would also account for poor performance.
    CXThomas likes this.
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  8. #17
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    your right head looks like it is not a oem gasket and on the block it looks like it failed or was about to

    is that the cylinder that was cold?

    did you notice anything different on tear down from side to side

    did that head come off easier?

    or are my aging eyes palying tricks on me
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

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    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  9. #18
    Senior Member big1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    your right head looks like it is not a oem gasket and on the block it looks like it failed or was about to

    is that the cylinder that was cold?

    did you notice anything different on tear down from side to side

    did that head come off easier?

    or are my aging eyes palying tricks on me
    Hi Murray! I didnt notice a temperature difference, and both of the heads came off about the same. The one with more carbon build up may have been a bit harder to get off. There wasnt a drop of coolant in the oil or vice versa when I drained the engine. Both fluid looked good.

    I ordered a bunch of gaskets and seals from partzilla yesterday. I'll throw up a list with part numbers soon. I didnt buy any o-rings yet.
    Last edited by big1000; 09-04-2016 at 12:12 PM.

  10. #19
    Senior Member big1000's Avatar
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    I tried to get some better pics of the cylinder walls. The left cylinder looks like it had some corrosion from sitting at one time. It doesn't look really bad, but you can see it in the photo. The right cylinder you can see cross hatching. Is that cross hatching from a rebuild? or stock? I know only so much can be told from pictures. Any input on whether to re-bore this thing or just try to buy OEM rings, or just leave it as is?

    I've been researching valve lapping and it looks like something that can be done fairly easily. I've heard guys going from 80psi to 150 then up to 170 after break in with only valve lapping. after looking at valves I could see them being the problem.

    Left Cylinder:






    Right Cylinder:






    exhaust ports on Left Head:



    Exhaust ports on right Head:




    The right cylinder seems to be in much better shape, but the strange thing is that both cylinders had almost exactly the same compression.... I think this may speak to the valves being the culprit?

  11. #20
    OCR
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    Cylinders look ok to me even with the water staining.
    The valve seats of the one head do need to be cleaned up which will improve the seal which will make it run better.
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    we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys.

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