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Thread: CX500slacker's 1981 Custom Build

  1. #11
    Senior Member rscottp's Avatar
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    Lead?
    1981 CX 500 Deluxe
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  2. #12
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscottp View Post
    Lead?
    Sorry lol PB stand for Lead?
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  3. #13
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    There are several varieties....

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  5. #14
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
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    found it on CT website, thanks. So this is suggested in place of WD40 or similar?
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  6. #15
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    WD40 has some value in some areas, but actually isn't all that great for use in our applications, it tends to attract dust and make more grime later. It's not a very good penetrant compared.
    May the myriad of wheels in your head, keep the two wheels between your legs rubber side down.

    Age 61
    No more stable, no more ride for me.

    G-Loria's Story I miss her dearly, but she is in good hands.

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  7. #16
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
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    WD40 is generally just fish oil extract isn't it? Either way I will grab some Buster when I'm at the store next.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  8. #17
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    AFAIK it's just kero and fishoil with 1 % proprietry ingredient.

    I find it's best as a cleaner and of little value for the intended purpose.
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  9. #18
    Senior Member chilimac's Avatar
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    SBob, you bring up a good point about use of stainless with aluminum, something I've always been nervous about. A little Google search just now reveals that there are metric socket bolts available in 7075 aluminum. Is it impertinent to ask if those would be preferable to SS for use in our carbs? At first, I used black steel bolts which rusted immediately, hence the move to SS. I've had NO problems with corrosion over about four years with SS in the carbs - granted, they sit in the garage whenever they're not on the road, and I have the carbs off the bike at least once a year on general principles, so they don't get much chance to "take a set".
    With regard to over-torqueing SS bolts, it seems to me that would be common to any kind of metal bolts, and I'd think it would be controlled by common sense.
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    1979 CX500 Custom, "Malaria", pronounced "mala-REE-ah" GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

  10. #19
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    Its not specifically stainless screws that are easy to overtorque but allen head screws. With a JIS you are limited to the torque your wrist can apply to the screwdriver. To properly use an Allen key you are supposed to put the long end into the screw head when installing screws and use the short end only when you need more torque for removing a screw that has been in for a long time and maybe has some corrosion in the threads. BUT most people put the short end into the screw when tightening and then lean hard on the long end (I've heard it referred to as "farmer tight").

    Stainless screws with any type of head will have a galvanic reaction with aluminum (more info).

    When you combine partially corroded threads in the aluminum with overtightening with the allen key.... Well, you can see why Randakk specifically recommends against it. BTW: One of the great things about Randakk's kits is that he supplies all of the correct replacement screws that you need for the job.


    BTW: The quick & easy way to tell whether you are looking at a JIS screw or a Phillips is that JIS screws made after 1967 are supposed to have a dimple like this (it actually indicates a change in the standard thread pitch)


    BTW: WD-40 is exactly what its name indicates: The 40th attempt to formulate a water displacer. It works quite well for that; The oil in it can lubricate threads if they aren't too badly stuck (but it can also lubricate the driver's point and the recess in the head) and the solvent carrier can help loosen dirt (but seldom as well as ordinary mineral spirits will for a fraction of the cost). Oh, and never, ever spray WD40 into a lock, especially in the winter. It freezes solid at something like -20c, not to mention leaving a sticky residue that will attract dust and make things worse in a short time (the only thing you should ever lubricate a lock with is powdered graphite). The same goes for electrical contacts (use actual contact cleaner for them). In fact, there is a purpose made product for every job people use WD for that will outperform WD hands down, the one exception being displacing water.

    PB = Parts Blaster. Parts Blaster (PB) Blaster is sort of redundant but it works so well we can forgive it for that I usually have a little bottle of Liquid Wrench for places where it is easy to apply a few drops (then tap it with a wrench and leave it for a while - the tap is supposed to make it vibrate and help it penetrate) and a spray can of PB Blaster for places that are harder to reach or where I want to cover a larger area. I think if I could buy PB in a bottle I would get that instead, though.

    BTW: That small impact driver is handy to have. It is much safer to use one like that to break small screws loose than to use a larger impact driver that you have to hit really hard before its spring compresses.
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  11. #20
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob I didn't know any of that about either product or the screws. BUuuuut the screw I can see on the mounting for my carbs don't have a dimple.
    Orlandocx500 likes this.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

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