CX500slacker's 1981 Custom Build - Page 3
Close
    
    
Page 3 of 21 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 13 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 201
Like Tree59Likes

Thread: CX500slacker's 1981 Custom Build

  1. #21
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Kawartha Lakes, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    7,140
    I'm not sure which screw you mean.

    Also, 35 years is a long time and it is possible that some Previous Owner has had the carbs apart, stripped out the heads of the JIS screws and replaced them with Philips. Philips heads & drivers are designed so that the driver will "cam out" of the head before you can apply enough force to turn the head off (an advantage when using power drivers in mass production). The Japanese designed theirs so the driver stays in the head and used power drivers with clutches (far superior). If the screws you have don't have dimples try using a Philips driver but stop at the first sign of the driver slipping.

    BTW: I can't speak for what they have now because they change suppliers periodically but I have bought JIS screws (complete with the dimple) in Canadian Tire's bulk hardware section from bins marked Philips.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

    CX WIKI
    FORUM SETTINGS EVERYONE SHOULD MAKE

  2. #22
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada
    Posts
    297
    Ok so I went out to fill up the front brakes and look for leaks and what I found tells me that it would be a waste of time lol. Ive never seen this in a MC not that I am a mechanic but I've looked in a few before just not a 35 year old one.


    And ya no clue what that is. Im guessing dried up brake fluid.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  3. #23
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, WA USA
    Posts
    9,854
    It seems you are pretty lucky compared to some. You at least got the top cap off that MC with no apparent damage. The black diaphragm seems intact......all that gunk should clean up ok. Below that rubber are two holes, one very very small that is deep down and offset a bit and hard to see/reach. Both need to be clear of obstruction. The WIKI should have some very clear help on this side of the project.
    May the myriad of wheels in your head, keep the two wheels between your legs rubber side down.

    Age 61
    No more stable, no more ride for me.

    G-Loria's Story I miss her dearly, but she is in good hands.

    Forum Settings that everyone should make

    Photo and Video posting Tips

    The WIKI link for all the good tech stuff. including free FSM's
    with addendums

    Larry's most excellent CX/GL Carb book link




  4. Remove Advertisements
    CX500Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #24
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada
    Posts
    297
    I guess it could be cleaned up but I'm pretty sure I will be swapping out front forks so I won't be using this MC in the end anyway.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  6. #25
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Kawartha Lakes, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    7,140
    Fill up the front brakes? Umm.... Unless you are replacing the brake fluid (should be done every 2-3 years) or you have just fixed a leak you should never add brake fluid to a master cylinder. The master cylinder's brake fluid level tells you how much life there is left in the pads. You fill the master cylinder to the upper mark when the pads are new and as the pads wear the caliper's piston(s) stay farther out so the level in the reservoir decreases. When the fluid level reaches the lower mark it is usually time to replace the pads. (This applies to your car's brakes too)

    Re master cylinder: It might be worth cleaning it up even if you aren't going to use on the finished bike. To start with you should get the bike running and actually drive it a few hundred KM ( a few months would be better but at this time of year......) before you start modifying stuff so that it can tell you what you really need to put the most effort into changing first. If you are planning to change the front end you should at least know how it handled before so you can tell whether the change made it better or worse.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

    CX WIKI
    FORUM SETTINGS EVERYONE SHOULD MAKE

  7. #26
    Senior Member chilimac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Newport News, Virginia, USA
    Posts
    1,750
    Sorry to barge back into the thread, but I just found a deal worth bringing to the attention of the forum.

    https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0577

    MotionPro has two-packs of JIS bits in both #1 and #2 sizes (good for our purposes) for $3.50 (not sure how that'll translate for the Canadians), and they're also available on ebay, but the ebay dealer wants $4.95 for shipping, what a crock.

    I'm ordering both sizes tomorrow.
    1979 CX500 Custom, "Malaria", pronounced "mala-REE-ah" GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

  8. #27
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Kawartha Lakes, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    7,140
    Their site says $6.50 for shipping so maybe the eBay dealer you found isn't so bad.....

    I looked on eBay.ca and the cheapest ones there are $6.98US/9.39CAD + $5.87US/7.89CAD for shipping. And they don't combine shipping.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

    CX WIKI
    FORUM SETTINGS EVERYONE SHOULD MAKE

  9. #28
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada
    Posts
    297
    The bike had no front brakes when I got it and there was/is no fluid in the front brake system at all. I know you are into the safer the better part of bikes so you should appreciate this.

    The bike came to me in need of work, the rear suspension is shot. The front needs serious attention, it has no front brakes (not working due to no fluid) and was not running. I appreciate the sentiment of people saying I should ride the bike to get to know it but its not safe to ride in its current state and I really don't feel like putting money into making safe to ride just to remove those parts to add new ones later. Lastly I do not have a motorcycle licence as yet. When I was younger I had experience riding small dirt bikes but never an on road bike. I bought this bike as a build project instead of buying a car (thought this could be twice the fun both during the build and after the build). Once I get it running it will be tear down time to get all the small details worked on.

    For those purists, as I have been reading the boards here I have read about pretty much all of my initial ideas (mono shock, spoke rims etc) I have decided to keep it a bit more simple and keep the frame mods to a minimum and build a clean fun to ride bike. Seeing as I have nothing to compare with once completed my base riding experience will be my CX500c. Ideally riding it would have been great but under these circumstances it isn't going to happen.

    Now with the MC I did vacuum the powder out and and pul the rubber out and the holes were plugged with greasy lumpy sludge. I also cleaned those holes out but I have a feeling the lines won't be much better.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

  10. #29
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Kawartha Lakes, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    7,140
    Yeah. The brakes on my GoldWing were like that when I got it too. It sat for 10 years (6 outside) before I got it. Fortunately I was building one out of that bike and my wreck and it had just about everything I needed for the brakes other than new lines. Speaking of which, I highly recommend braided stainless lines instead of the original rubber. Rubber lines on bikes are supposed to be replaced every couple of fluid changes but barring physical damage stainless ones (actually ss wire braided over teflon tube) last forever.

    If it was just a matter of putting fresh fluid in the forks and flushing the brakes it would be worth getting it running more or less stock but if it is too far gone to fix up before you start in on the mods then yeah, you won't have the opportunity to let it tell you what needs to be done. Its just that a lot of people who have never had a street bike before and have no idea how they work pull one apart and start making changes that can be outright dangerous, not only to themselves but to other road users. Often they end up scaring themselves and wind up selling it because of something that would have been relatively easy to avoid.

    The best advice I can give someone in your situation is to think long & hard about why you want to make any change and what effect it will have on how the bike works before you make it. Don't change something that will affect handling based on the way it will look. Something built to work well it will always look right but something built to look cool can work poorly and usually doesn't look right either.
    A few common pitfalls people make are:
    Fatter tires never handle as well as skinny ones. That doesn't mean you will be better with bicycle tires but it does mean that if you cram in the fattest tire that will fit it won't go around bends as enjoyably.
    Shocks that are too much longer or shorter than the originals can result in too great an angle for the u-joint which will waste power and increase wear.
    Forks that are significantly longer or shorter than the originals (or raising the forks in the clamps to drop the front end) will alter the rake & more importantly the trail (if you don't know what trail is look it up).

    Re your license: Are you planning to taker a course? The MTO approved courses that are available are designed to take you from novice to M2 in 3 days. If you do that you will get some intensive experience on a bike that probably works reasonably well and that will help you know whether the one you are building is in the right ballpark. I would also recommend finding an experienced motorcyclist to test drive it when it gets to that point if you can.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

    CX WIKI
    FORUM SETTINGS EVERYONE SHOULD MAKE

  11. #30
    Senior Member cx500slacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada
    Posts
    297
    I have a response for each of your points, all valid I might add. Here goes.

    I plan on putting SS brake line on during final build which should solve the issue at hand, My choices are usually based on 75% function and 25% form. Now with that said sometimes if the 25% is ugly enough I may have to change the plan lol. I am considering sport bike front suspension because I am a large guy and I don't want to have a squishy front suspension not to mention that I would like to have the front brakes upgrade that most of the sport bike forks offer. Exactly which front forks have yet to be determined but I have been carefully reading threads about swaps and Im creating a short list. Rear suspension again I want shocks that will support me and allow the bike to handle properly, I have no intention of changing any geometry by suspension changes unless changing the front forks lowers the bike and changes the angle of the front forks which may require the rear end to be lowered to bring the angles back in line with spec (but so far I havent read that has been an issue).

    I have asked about tires trying to find out what will fit but I was more thinking of larger wheel (I say was because I am now considering sticking with my stock reverse comstar on the rear). Sticking with stock I would just replace with same size tire but obviously with a new tire. Tire tech has gotten so much better over the past 35 years I think pretty much anything is an upgrade.

    Lastly I plan on writing my M1 and taking a government approved M2 exit course within 90 days of getting my M1. Ive heard many great things about these courses and I fully plan to experience what the courses have to offer.

    Now the funny part, I had visions of a completely different plan and now after a week of reading on here I have altered my plan a number of times. I am now leaning towards minor mods to seating area and rear fender, suspension, electronics, tires and brakes. Oh ya and paint.
    Sidecar Bob likes this.
    Wasaga Beach, ON, Canada

    1981 Honda CX500 Custom
    Named: TBD

Page 3 of 21 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 13 ... LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. 1981 CX500C Budget Build
    By username in forum CX Customization and Mods Forum
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 05-06-2016, 07:34 AM
  2. 1981 CX500C Budget Build
    By username in forum Build Threads
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 05-06-2016, 07:34 AM
  3. My First Build Ever ( 1981 GL500 Intersate)
    By Sage in forum Build Threads
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-06-2016, 07:14 PM
  4. CX500CCC - The Custom Custom Cafe Novice Bike Build
    By thom in forum CX Customization and Mods Forum
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 05-04-2015, 08:23 PM
  5. 1981 CX500 Custom Bobber Build
    By benmclendon in forum CX Customization and Mods Forum
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 01-30-2012, 04:10 AM