Frankenwheel: 17" rear wheel on CX500
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Thread: Frankenwheel: 17" rear wheel on CX500

  1. #1
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    Frankenwheel: 17" rear wheel on CX500

    Hey all,

    I'd seen a couple of posts about doing the GL1100 wheel conversion and in my quest to get radials onto the CX I decided to investigate doing this procedure myself.

    I decided to do an in depth and detailed guide outlining exactly what is needed and the steps involved.

    Things you'll need:
    GL110 Wheel
    Cx500 wheel
    10xM8 40mm shanked 8.8 High tensile bolts
    5xM8 65mm shanked 8.8 High tensile bolts
    15xM8 nylock nuts
    30xM8 washers
    3MM High Speed Cobalt drillbit (or similar)
    5mm High Speed Cobalt drillbit (or similar)
    8mm Metal drillbit
    1/2" socket
    Hammer
    Nail/hole Punch (alternative listed below)
    Schrader valve removal tool (alternative listed below)
    Tyre Irons (alternative listed below)
    Bead Breaker (alternative listed below)
    Multigrips/vice grips
    320grit wet/dry sandpaper
    600grit wet/dry sandpaper
    Your favourite colour paints
    Etch primer
    Vice
    Hacksaw or other metal cutting tool


    Our unlucky victimName:  QD4f9ls.jpg
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    Drain the air out of the tyre, use a valve removal tool to pull out the schrader valve, these can be gotten from any auto store or if you're like me and it's late at night you can make your own. I used a flat head bit and used my angle grinder to grind out the center


    Next you'll need to break the bead. You'll need to apply a lot of pressure to the bead to get it to break. There are proper tools you can buy for this, you can DIY up your own one but again... If you're like me, you don't have these I used the leg of an iron chair and sort of threw my weight into it to break the bead.
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    Now get your Tyre irons to lever the tyre off the rim. If you're like me... you don't own tyre irons, so I used some flat head screw drivers. Take care not to damage your rims, use some rim protectors you can get from auto stores to stop you from damaging the rim. Or if you're like me... you don't own any. I used some rags to good effect.


    Do the same procedure on your 18" wheel, you don't need to remove the tyre although it will make it easier to work with. The only part from your old wheel you'll need is the hub so unless you plan to reuse them don't worry about damaging it. I didn't worry about protecting the rim when removing the tyre.

    Once you've got the tyre off it's time to start deconstructing the wheel. Honda have opted to use a unique 3-sided-rounded bolt to hold the spokes and hub together. You might be able to find this online but if you're anything like me you're impatient and you'll look for any alternative. I found a 1/2" socket will fit if you hit it on with a hammer. Then use your breaker bar to take off the nut. You'll need multigrips or similar to hold the bolt while you take take the nut off.


    At this point you've taken out all the bolts holding the hub out and it should spin freely. Our next step is to start removing the rivets, I tried a few different methods for removing these and this is the one I found works best.

    Use your hole punch and punch a quick dent in the dead center of the rivet, this will make drilling into it easier because your drill bit won't be skipping around the dome of the rivet. I couldn't find my hole/nail punch so I used an old small jewelers screwdriver I didn't need anymore.
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    Get your 3mm drill bit and drill down into the rivet far enough that it passes through the spoke and close to the rim. You do not need to drill through to the other side.

    Get your 5 MM drill bit and widen the hole. Then get your 8MM and drill down until you're left with a little ring that will get stuck around your drill bit once you've done both the rivets you should be able to pull the spoke off, it might take a bit of persuasion of a tap with the hammer but it should come off easily and leave you with something that looks like this.

    At this point you can take a hammer and beat on the rivets to push the spoke out of the other side, you might need to use something smaller than 6mm to push it throughor the other method is to take your 8MM drill bit to drill out the remainder that's hanging out if you find it's getting caught on the rivet.


    You can then hammer out the rivet from the poke on the other side, you'll be left this this.


    Repeat the process for each spoke until everything comes free.


    At this point you can either start assembling your Frankenwheel or alternatively this is a great time to give it a fresh coat of paint like I did.

    I used a 320grit wet sand paper to clean up the rim itself, I found it did a great job of removing the paint but didn't put any scratches into the metal itself, I wouldn't be comfortable using any lower grit. It doesn't need be perfect you just need to make a good base for your primer to go onto. This is how mine looked.


    For the spokes and hub I put them into my sand blasting cabinet which made short work, I took the first 2 spokes back to bare metal but eventually decided it was taking too much time and if it can survive a sand blasting then it's a good enough surface for paint to adhere to. Make sure to mask up your hub so you don't get any of your blasting media into it.


    Each of the holes in the spokes and on the rim will to be drilled out to accommodate our M8 bolts. Use your drillbit for this. (I didn't get any photos of this step)

    When painting you'll need to cover your hub a little more similar to this


    Make sure you use an etch primer because we're painting a non porous metal.

    I used a satin black spray paint on my wheel.


    I finished it with a satin/semi-gloss clear coat I was very pleased with the results.




    Assemble your wheel make sure you use a washer on each side of the spoke so you don't mark your paint




    Work your way around but don't tighten up too much yet, you want to be able to move things around a little to slide your bolts through.



    You'll need to mount your tyre back on the rim. I strongly recommend you get some proper tyre irons for this step to stop doing any damage to your rim. To protect the rim as you lever the tyre back on you can cut some garden hose into a few lengths and then slide it open to slide over the rim. I recommend you put some painters tape on the rim as well The hose will stop you damaging the soft metal with your irons and the tape will stop the hose from marring the paint. I don't have any photos of this process.

    I had some issues getting the the bead to seat so if you have any issues you can use a ratchet strap to apply pressure all around.


    Make sure your valve has been removed when you inflate, I had to remove my valve, apply a ratchet and pump it with 120 initial PSI to get the bead to seat, I then stepped it down to complete pumping it up


    The tyre mounted on this rim is a Michellin Pilot Street Radial 140/70/17. The GL1100 RIM is 2.5" wide which is a bit more accommodating of the 140 width tyre but still slightly larger than is recommended. A 130 width is a perfectly acceptable size to fit to the 2.5" rim.

    This has left PLENTY of breathing space between the swing arm and the tyre.



    You could comfortable fit a 150 here if you were game enough to squeeze it onto the rim.

    With a 17" rear and 19" front you can now run radials. Michellen make a tyre called the Anakee 3 which comes in appropriate sizes.
    Last edited by Son of eevil; 05-22-2017 at 02:06 AM.
    MobileAZN likes this.
    Currently building 2 Cafe Racers:

    CX500 Standard - Current working title "Furry Rat"
    CX500C - Building this for my father, doesn't have a name yet still waiting for something to come to me

  2. #2
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    i missed the part where you put it in a truing stand and checked it for run out and wobble?

    you need to do that as you are tightening everything up now you dont know how true your rim is and you have the tire mounted

    you also should mark the spoke plates for original locating to the rim and replace them as such
    dbjac and purplecx500 like this.
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

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    GET A QUICKSET VALVE TOOL


    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    i missed the part where you put it in a truing stand and checked it for run out and wobble?

    you need to do that as you are tightening everything up now you dont know how true your rim is and you have the tire mounted

    you also should mark the spoke plates for original locating to the rim and replace them as such
    Your tips/hints come too late

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    PS:
    @Son of eevil
    What's the diameter of the old rivets
    7mm or 8mm ?
    Last edited by guelli02; 04-30-2017 at 05:11 AM.

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  5. #4
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    not only that but he did not torque the bolts?
    dbjac likes this.
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  6. #5
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    Next you'll need to break the bead. You'll need to apply a lot of pressure to the bead to get it to break. There are proper tools you can buy for this, you can DIY up your own one but again... If you're like me, you don't have these I used the leg of an iron chair and sort of threw my weight into it to break the bead.
    LOL
    I thought of everything but that. I looked around my apartment thinking jacks and 2x4's upright and sideways and just didn't have it laying around or want to damage the door frames and whatever.
    I got it done but I like your thinking and I'll remember it next time.
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    Oh but to have a garage and all the tools again.

  7. #6
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    Here in Germany our TÜV-inspector (England = MOT, USA = ??) would never allow this:
    https://imgur.com/DFYPVnS

    The saftey (nylstop) nut will not avoid the screw for un-screwing. The bolt is too short. The bolt must ! look out off the nut for one or two threads.

    Next:
    The screws should be this type of "Bundschraube" (aka Schaftschraube).

    https://www.baywa.de/shop/produkte/e...mh00672-571081

    Link/picture is just to explain the "Bund".

    We call it in german Bundschraube.
    The Bund is the section without threads.
    The un-threaded section must take the spoke, the rim and the spoke for the other side. Then the threaded part for the nut.

    This are screws for rims, mostly M7
    https://www.wheeltec-lippstadt.de/shop/felgenschrauben/

    The most shown screws have this "Bund"

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    i missed the part where you put it in a truing stand and checked it for run out and wobble?

    you need to do that as you are tightening everything up now you dont know how true your rim is and you have the tire mounted

    you also should mark the spoke plates for original locating to the rim and replace them as such
    I originally wasn't going to address this but either you're obviously baiting me into or you have a complete lack of social skills. I continue to grow tired of your attitude.

    Here's a suggestion on how you can ask the same question politely and it's only 2 extra words!

    "You might have missed it but did you put it on a truing stand and checked it for run out and wobble?"

    Wheel hasn't been trued yet it's still to come. I was pretty keen to find out if the tyre would fit inside the swing arm so I mounted up the tyre to check it. I actually haven't even bolted it in yet because I'll be taking it back off shortly.





    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    not only that but he did not torque the bolts?
    Wheel isn't trued so the bolts are not torqued. If you need someone tell you to torque bolts you're on the wrong forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by guelli02 View Post
    What's the diameter of the old rivets
    7mm or 8mm ?
    Smidge larger than 8mm. In one of the photos you can see the rings around the 8mm drill. That's what's left of the rivet after drilling it out. The inside is probably 6mm or 7mm, I can measure it a bit later for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by guelli02 View Post
    Here in Germany our TÜV-inspector (England = MOT, USA = ??) would never allow this:
    https://imgur.com/DFYPVnS

    The saftey (nylstop) nut will not avoid the screw for un-screwing. The bolt is too short. The bolt must ! look out off the nut for one or two threads.
    Bolts haven't been torqued down yet. There should be enough to push the bolt through with 1-2 threads out of the nylock nut.
    Last edited by Son of eevil; 04-30-2017 at 07:12 AM.
    Currently building 2 Cafe Racers:

    CX500 Standard - Current working title "Furry Rat"
    CX500C - Building this for my father, doesn't have a name yet still waiting for something to come to me

  9. #8
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    Son of Evil, maybe you could edit your first post to address some of these things.

    You wouldn't have drawn this flack if this was on your build thread but you have presented it as a how to.

    The fellers just want to see best practice passed on.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

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    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

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  10. #9
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    Whatever
    simply500 likes this.
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    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Whatever
    You can continue to be dismissive or start trying to be a decent and polite person. I will continue to call you out on it. You're an adult Murray, time to act like it.

    Either way, I expect the forums blind vitriol to start rolling in any time now.

    Quote Originally Posted by CXPHREAK View Post
    Son of Evil, maybe you could edit your first post to address some of these things.

    You wouldn't have drawn this flack if this was on your build thread but you have presented it as a how to.

    The fellers just want to see best practice passed on.
    I don't mind correction and criticism but there is no reason that it cannot be done politely. It's just continual disregard for other people being shown by Murray.
    Last edited by Son of eevil; 04-30-2017 at 08:30 AM.
    Currently building 2 Cafe Racers:

    CX500 Standard - Current working title "Furry Rat"
    CX500C - Building this for my father, doesn't have a name yet still waiting for something to come to me

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