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Another Custom Cafe Racer Build

5K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  CXPHREAK 
#1 ·
I've always loved the look of cafe racers and vintage bikes i have a frined in the UK that runs the Thunder Sprint and used to go every year before moving to the USA.

so the idea is to take this.

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and start turning it to somthing a little more sporting.

I have identified 3 issues with this particular bike. Front brake is all locked up. Carbs need rebuilding and a coolant leak. I want to get the bike actaully running and start ridding it before i do a complete strip down and rebuild

So today i started taking the front caliper apart for a rebuild.

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This thread is going to take along time as i ahve enver done anything like this before.
 
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#3 ·
I started out with similar objectives. Once I looked into it, it turned out that the coolant leak was from the mechanical seal. Indeed, it was suggested on these pages that it probably was that and at that time I was advised that I should likely consider doing the "triple bypass" (mechanical seal, cam chain and stator replacement). At that time I wasn't feeling that confident about my mechanical skills. Over the winter I stripped the bike down to clean, paint and powder coat.
I replaced the mechanical seal, cleaned, painted and sent the frame out for powder coating.
When it was all buttoned back up we couldn't get it started - you guessed it - the stator had gone to. Engine had to come back out and as long as we're there might as well replace the cam chain.
Lesson learned.
On the plus side. You get really good at getting the engine in and out.
My advice is read up on the triple bypass - you've got the winter to do it and if you have the engine out to replace the mechanical seal - it's not that much further to go for the stator and cam chain - at least you know it's done and it's not going to jump up and bite you on the ass later when you want to ride the thing.
 
#5 ·
Finally got my Caliper put back together and rebuilt
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I couldn't resist and had to put the handle bars on

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I do have a question though i notices that because of the change in handle bars, all of the cables (clutch throttle and brake) are now all to long. i was wondering what everyone else did to resolve this ?
 
#7 ·
I disagree with Elvis! I think it would be better to make sure that the new bars are going to be comfortable before you cut lines. If the new bars hurt your back and neck, switching to higher bars will be a lot easier and cheaper if the cables are still long.
I agree with Elvis! Stainless steel braided lines are the way, and they are so beautiful...
 
#9 ·
Thanks guys i'm new to the whole bike thing, life long wish finally coming true.

I was in a serious Car wreck about 10 years ago where i fractured my neck and back so there is never a day that there isn't some pain. I kind of figure if i'm in pain anyway there isn't much point in what position i ride in :) as i can never get comfortable.

I got a stainless steel brake line to install and am waiting on changing the other controls out.
 
#10 ·
Steve, I too was in a bad wreck and havd 3 herniated discs in my neck and one in my back....I now have a plate and screws holding two vertabrae solid with one now fused itself to that repaired pair of vertabre, now the lower one is attching itself to the repaired two......so I can relate to your pain etc....I must sit upright when riding to stop all pain and any arm numbness or riding isn't possible for me. Looking up is out of the question, just saying.....we are all different....but this is how I get past my issues. upright seating position, looking directly ahead, constant neck movements to stop it siezing up from constantly staring at traffic ahead of me....yes I know, a bad way to ride in any serious traffic. As people have said, get your seating so you can ride for hours on end before finishing your build.....make do with whatever it takes until you find that seating position that suits you first then finalize the controls etc. That is why I am forced to do a desert racer/ street fighter/ scrambler style over a cafe racer.....OK I prefer the look of what I need personally, but it's just some advise and hopefully useful advise....?
I also am a big fan of braided lines, they are far superior and also look better, but costly depending upon end fittings.
Good luck....ride safe....remember comfort will allow you to enjoy the ride ....longer.
 
#13 ·
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So i started working on fitting the throttle and master cylinder on the right side. I had to cut about an inch off the throttle tube in order for my new grips to fit. I carefully applied a hack saw and found how brittle the plastic had become as part of it cracked.I then removed the end of the grip so i could still turn the throttle and have a mirror. I know have to re-size the throttle cables and the clutch cable. Cluctch cable is being modified first and then when i pull my carbs out i redo those.
 
#14 ·
So i got some time off this week and with the weather being nice today decided i would do a little on the bike. the plan was to get the carbs off so i could use Randell's rebuild kit. I want to put pods on the carbs so decided to take the airpod put and take the tank of for stripping down.

Is do have a question.... there is a rubber hose that runs from the front of the bike, comes from both sides of the bike and has a y connector that then enters into the airpod, being a complete novice and sounding a pleb ... what is it and how important is it. other POD filter mods what do you do with this hose ?

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I also noticed on the back of the engine, this mess. i was worried about a coolant leak but i tracked that down to an old hose.
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#15 ·
It looks like your rear cover is broken where the wires for the stator are coming out........if thats the case then you should be looking for a replacement cover
 
#16 ·
The tubes in question allow the crankcase to breathe. Some CX models have a breather bottle over the timing inspection port, some have two tubes behind the head and later ones are vented from the pulser cover, iirc.

What is a crankcase breather and why do you need one? - Honda CX500 info

You can plumb them back into pod filters or vent to the atmosphere with a filter - both have been done. The former is better for the environment. Read up and see which method suits you best.
 
#17 ·
Thanks guys that helps me out alot. if i change the rear engine cover what else should i think about changing whilst i'm at it.

JC I i have been lurking alot on this site and new the carbs would need re-jetting.
So just routing the rubber tubing to the Pods will solve solve the problem ? Does the diameter of the tubing make a difference if i put all new tubing in. allot of the rubber on this has perished and is cracking.
 
#19 ·
when changing the rear cover look at inspecting the cam chain guides and replacing either if broken, put in a fresh cam chain, mechanical seal, and all the little bits that go along with it like copper washer, o-rings and gaskets. All this info can be found in the wiki section under replacing cam chain

Oh, and before you do that run a stator test to see if the stator needs to be changed or did the bike run before hand?
 
#18 · (Edited)
My advice would be to cap the original head breathers and fit a bottle breather to the timing inspection port. There's a reason that Honda changed the breather setup, - simply, the original didn't work very well. The original breathers are too high on the motor in relation to the breather box leading to bikes with some miles and wear on them passing a lot of oil to the airbox.

I would loop the breather tube as high as possible for maximum drainback to the motor and fabricate a catchcan with drain tube and breather cap. This will prevent oilfouling of the pod filters. The drain needs to be plugged to prevent dirty air from being pulled in. The plug is pulled each service to drain as per the factory airbox.

PS Flexible 1/2 inch dripline and its fittings as used in hydroponics is suitable for breathers and is inexpensive. My rider has had these for 6 years now.
 

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#24 ·
when I first start stripping a tank I use a paint stripper like zip strip, or air craft paint stripper works good, do it out side or in well ventilated space, with a mask. saves on a lot of sand paper and time. then I toss it in the sand blaster, or sand it. makes the strip down go a lot smoother IMO.
 
#25 ·
Started doing my Carb Rebuild and have been following Larries book. but i have ran into a couple of issues.

Seems someone else tried to rebuild the carb at some point and made a couple of mistakes.

I now know why the Float leeks as a post was broken off. I got a friend to help me rebuild the post with an aluminium weld. just need to drill the pin whole out and then shape it a little . I don't think it need great strength just enough to hold the pin in place.
the other issue i had was with the emulsion tubes. Seems the last person used a regular screwdriver and broke the head in the jet. When my mate and i made our custom extractor the driver would not hold due to the head being broken.

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A friend of mine who rebuilds other carbs for ATV's was wondering if i could drill the head out and then re die the jet hole. I was also wondering who would be a good supplier for a replacement tube
 
#26 ·
I've pulled emulsion tubes with an easy out in much the same way that Larry shows to remove early idle jets, except obviously the emulsion tubes unscrew rather than pull.

You may be able to cut a better screw slot once you have the piece out. Grind your screwdriver bit to match while you can see what you're matching.

Spray your best penetrant now. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner run the carbs through that first to loosen things up. Otherwise soak in a 50/50 mix of acetone and acrylic paint thinner.
 
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