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Long Journey

3K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Ooobadaga 
#1 ·
My uncle called me two days ago saying that he would sell me his 1979 CX500 for a mere $500, but that I would need to ship it. He currently lives in Minnesota, while I in the warm and sunny Arizona (go Sun Devils). So while I am looking into shipping companies to transport the bike down here, I continued researching (as I have for the past few months) on bikes and converting them into cafes. I hope to have the bike by the end of the month, at which point I will immediately begin tearing it apart.

Before I continue, I would like to emphasize that I have NEVER worked on a motorcycle, but I would like to consider myself mechanically inclined. I have worked on my dad's car ('68 Olds w/ a 455 in it) with him, and enjoy working with my hands. I have only ridden dirt bikes and quads, nothing on the pavement. I also would like to note that I have no problem admitting things that I know little about, and am hoping for some constructive/relevant feedback to aid me with this process.

SO... I have a laundry list of things I would love to do, assuming I had the finances to do it all. I am a college student (again, go Devils) and understand that these all likely won't get done in the near future but am curious which you guys think would be the most "important" in completing first. I'm sure many of you are familiar with Mateusz Stankiewicz's build, this is similar to what I had in mind. With that being said, the list is as follows:

Forks/Brakes: I have seriously considered swapping out the front forks with newer ones, CBR forks for example. This certainly isn't something I'm set on doing but liked the look and adjustability of these newer forks. I also was wanting bigger, beefier brakes... likely dual disc upfront and someday maybe disc in the rear as well. I have read that some swap with the CB750 forks because a select few of those came with dual disc, and this could possible lead to a more streamlined and easier conversion.

Wheels: Is there much "swap-ability" to these bikes in terms of wheels. I know that for some you need to machine spacers to fit properly, but are there many wheels that will fit well with little hassle?

Handlebars: I REALLY like ABM's adjustable clip ons that were featured in "stuntexru's" YouTube video recently. However, I have seen them priced upwards of $400 :(. Certainly not set on these either though.

Tank: In my opinion, the CX500 tank looks almost tear drop-like, which is kind of funky. I really like the CB550 tanks, and am curious what kind of swap fitment issues I might run into, if I were to try this.

Carbs: The only issue that my uncle says he knows of with his bike, is the carbs not being tuned properly. He has owned the bike since '82 and bought it from a buddy (who had bought it new). Supposedly the bike ran great for many years, and my uncle took it to a different mechanic once who totally f'ed up the way it ran. THUS I am looking into installing new carbs. (This is where everyone says "See Murray's posts", I assume).

Exhaust: I also really do not like the stock look of the exhaust on the CXs. I had in mind something that came from the heads and met together under the middle of the bike, and stopped just before the rear tire. I have read stuff about how removing the air box and the H-pipe creates all kinds of problems, so I am looking for the best way to avoid all of these. I will insert a picture below of something like I had in mind. Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Car


Rear Suspension: One of my goals with this project is to level out the tank and seat so that it creates a parallel line with the ground. (See Stankiewicz's bike, like I said earlier). I believe I read that he raised the rear of the bike close to five inches to achieve this look, and to cater to his tall stature (I am certainly of this category - 6'2"). Other than a mono-shock, what would you all recommend for the rear suspension of the bike?

Seat Cowl: I am hoping to hide the battery, fuse box, and wiring within the seat cowl, but not make it look strangely large by doing so. One of my dad's buddies owns an English Wheel that I might be able to toy with for this fabrication.

Frame: *I am very prepared to be torn apart for this section* I am not a big fan of the subframe on these bikes. The awkward bend, below the seat, just looks out of place. Also, the front part of the subframe where the seat sits seems to dip down some, creating another awkward line. I am looking for advice on how to combat these problems. Altering the subframe has crossed my mind, or actually having it altered.. I wouldn't trust myself with something like this. I understand that someone will likely post how I am challenging the engineering that took place (almost 40 years ago) in designing the geometry of the bike, and by questioning this is just asinine. All that to say, IF I HAD AN OPTION TO DO SO, I really wouldn't mind making this aesthetically more pleasing, while keeping it safe for the road.


If you've made it this far, I appreciate you taking time to read this NEWB's post. I certainly would love to hear any feedback and recommendations that you all will have for all/any of these topics, or any others that I am overlooking.

Also, I should mention that the bike has just under 15,000 original miles, and I apologize in advance for anyone that thinks I am "destroying" a perfectly good bike.

Thank you again.
 
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#2 ·
Also, I should mention that the bike has just under 15,000 original miles, and I apologize in advance for anyone that thinks I am "destroying" a perfectly good bike.
So, do I need to go over and save this one before you get your hands on it? Sorry, just joking. But...

In the short term, worry about making the bike and yourself road worthy. Take an MSF course. A background of off-road riding will serve you well, but the street needs a whole other set of skills. Once you've ridden it long enough to know the platform well, and done enough work on it to know the mechanics of it well, you'll be in a better place to start making changes.


R
 
#3 ·
Assuming from your description that it's not running and hasn't for a little while (how long?)... before tearing it apart get it running properly first, then ride it for a little while to get a feel for the bike. That way you can make changes based on what you like/dislike about how the bike handles/performs. Planning ahead is great but if you start tearing it apart before it's all running perfectly then you won't be sure what went wrong when it won't start again down the track.

Read up on things like checking the cam chain, doing the stator test, cleaning the carbs, do an oil, filter and coolant change, make sure the tyres are <5 years old and have tread, lube the final drive flange and change the final drive oil etc. etc. etc.

Changing the front end and the suspension can have a dramatic impact on how the bike handles - read up on rake and trail and how changing the front/rear suspension affects them.
 
#4 ·
First, thank you both for providing feedback. Many of these things that you both mentioned I have contemplated and plan on doing at some point.

Randall, well yes considering the bike currently sits in Plymouth, you aren't too far from it. :) Not sure if this was a good plan, but I had intended on taking the MSF course while working on the bike. Perhaps it would be better to ride the bike stock, and then look at changes that I desire. Something to think about for sure.

JC, similarly to Randall you had suggested riding the bike some before I begin modifying it, not a bad idea. I had intentions of taking the bike to a mechanic immediately for them to look over the entire thing, replace all fluids, check lines, etc. Also, from what I have read, it seems that most people seem to be satisfied with their fork swap when it is performed properly. I will heed your advice and read up on rake and trail.

Again, thank you kindly for providing insight on the topic. I look forward to hearing if others care to join in with additional thoughts.
 
#6 ·
Hey did you find someone to transport your cx 500 I have a 3/4 ton chevy diesel with enclosed trail and its cold as hell in Wis. Trailer and bike about 15 to 19 miles per gal, and 100.00 each way I think you could get it cheaper though a transport. If i got out of the cold for a short time it would be worth it. Good luck hauling.
 
#7 ·
I still have not decided which shipping company I will be using. Many seem to be charging around $600 to transport it, although I haven't toyed around with U-Ship yet. Apparently through them, shippers bid on the shipment and I choose between them. I would consider 3rd party shipping options though.
 
#8 ·
May I ask you (the O.P.) what is your intended purpose for getting a street bike? Do you want to ride it any considerable distance? Do you want to commute to school or work on it? Or, do you just want an exercise in working on one and modifying it to get the look? I suggest you read and become familiar with the state inspection requirements before cutting anything apart or you may end up with a boat anchor or lawn ornament.
Ask someone who owns a "cafe" style cycle how far they can go between stops. Get down on the floor on your knees, lean forward and put your hands out in front of you with some of your weight on the hands. Stay that way until it hurts. Tell me how long you lasted. Now, sit on the floor with your spine vertical. Is that better?
So, all I am suggesting is that you think before cutting. Otherwise, have a ball.
 
#9 ·
I would definitely get it on the road and safe before making structural changes. I would be stunned if you don't change your plans after you do. I am not suggesting you don't make it how you like it just that you will have no idea what you like until you ride it for a while.
 
#10 ·
Thank you for the input MCReviver and rscottp! I would like to address both of your points.
MCReviver:
I plan on riding my bike occasionally to school, which consists of about 15-20 minutes on the freeway, as well as casually riding around town for fun. I also have gotten invites from some friends to ride the nearby canyon "twisties" with them (this of course, after I advance my riding skills). I suppose I will get a bit of an exercise by modifying and altering the bike, but of course this was not my intention. I was unaware that modifying the frame (perhaps to add a seat hoop) possibly violated any state inspection requirements, I will need to research this. And without attempting any of your suggested tests, I understand your point. I would counter with, my fit 21-year old self being reasonably comfortable in any position for an extended period of time. Definitely something I will consider though.
rscottp:
It is certainly a possibility that my plans can change after having the bike for some time. I was simply hoping to get an idea of what others thought would be the "most important" in addressing when rebuilding a bike in this way.

Thank you all for the input, if you have anything specifically related to parts and fitment of the items I had originally listed, I would love to hear it.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Another option. After the world thaws out, pay your uncle a visit (or several), and get the bike running and roadworthy. There are a lot of members in the area, if you need help. Then ride it to Arizona.

Between visits, you can take a Basic Riding Course (they provide the bike) to prepare yourself for the trip.


R

P.S. If you're intent on spending money, get it to my garage, and I'll do it.
 
#13 ·
Thank you both for your input, again I will discuss each of your points.

murrayf: You are correct in assuming that there is some "sentimental attachment" with this bike. My uncle is getting older, and we both thought it would be a neat project for me to work on, and he is pleased to pass it down to me knowing that I will take care of it. I would argue however, that although the bike has not ran in some period of time, that THIS of all bikes would be one where there would be little "unknown". Other than the current running condition of the bike, I know the entire history of it. I know that until recently, he kept it running, took it out relatively often, and babied it. I figured $1,100 for a bike that has sentimental value, should run well in due time, and could be a great learning project was a steal. Maybe I'm incorrect in thinking this. I will attach a photo of the only other CX500s listed on Craigslist, located nearby. I think that you would agree with my decision once you see the other options. Again maybe I'm wrong in assuming this as well. Take a gander Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Auto part


Randall: I will continue to nudge my uncle to allow me to drive up there and transport the bike myself. He is concerned with my safety and the 1,500+ mile trip "across the frozen tundra" (as he referred to it). I would much rather NOT pay several visits to get the bike in running condition, as this is cost prohibiting across many facets. Additionally, I am hoping to get my hands on it as soon as I can to have a project to work on. I am "fine" paying the cost of shipping if that is what it takes. I like the idea though. Although, with hotel stays on the trip back, gas, and the cost of getting to Minnesota, it may get close to the shipping cost anyways. Of course, I am paying in part for the convenience.

Thank you all for contributing, I really do appreciate all of the input. I will gladly answer any other questions, comments, or concerns.
 
#15 ·
murrayf: SORRY, not sure if my reply just sent or not.. Thank you for understanding! I am hoping to soon be working on the bike and starting this exciting process!! I also hope to soon be a customer of some of your products. Thank you again.
 
#16 ·
If you are going to ship it to you then take it to a local shop who may or may not be familiar with the brand I would talk to "R" -bring it to him 1st he can get it going plus give you a survey on what it needs. It will be rideable when you get it then decide what to do with it. You will get a honest report.
Paul
 
#17 ·
Unless it was parked after some failure, it shouldn't take much to get her going. Barring major mechanical work, I'll do that for a smile and a handshake. But you'd need to bring it here from Plymouth.


R
 
#19 ·
FYI...I used U-Ship about 18 months and was satisfied with the deal.
Several haulers contacted me with bids and I selected a guy from
my area to haul the bike from Illinois to Oklahoma for $465.00.
The hauler added my bike to a load of generators he was hauling
he said "just to help with expenses".

Your uncle should give you the bike just to keep it in the family????
 
#20 ·
I just found this conversation, I also live in the Metro, actually about 1.5 miles from Randall. I can transport from Plymouth to R's place, maybe even help with getting it running.
 
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#21 ·
Who knows? Maybe I will take you up on your offer Randall. And Old Okie, thank you for the input, I am continually looking into how U-Ship works. Also, I felt bad just "taking" the bike from him. He asked me "Why don't you just give me 500 bucks, and its yours?", and of course I said yes.

Thank you all for contributing!
 
#22 · (Edited)
A couple of points to consider.

The bike is 30+ years old. Not many shops will even touch a bike that is more than 5 years old.

Get the bike roadworthy first. You will need manuals and metric tools. Down load the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from the WIKI. Consider a Haynes or Clymers manual for more laymans steps. Remember the FSM is written for Honda trained mechanics and probably does not have all the step by step details. The FSM is final authority on any discrepancies. Next get Larry Cargill's carb book, plan to do a full service on the carbs.

Once you have the manuals, pull the High Mileage Service list. This will take you through the primary systems.
Check the tire date codes. Anything prior to 2011 should be replaced.
Brakes.......service them and replace pads.

Lastly, but probably most important.......get the proper riding gear. Helmet is minimum. Screw the laws about not needing a helmet.......you only got 1 brain. Then hope you never need the gear to perform.

As others have said.....Ride the bike for a bit to discover what you want to do. Remember, function and performance are 1st and 2nd. Looks can follow 3rd.
 
#23 ·
Thank you Knute for your input and feedback! I will most definitely download all of the manuals and other tools at my disposal. I plan on doing a thorough rebuild of this bike, all parts that can be "worn" will be replaced. As far as gear is concerned, I plan on having full gear on every time I ride. Thank you again for your input, greatly appreciated!!!

On another note, I just booked a shipper yesterday, bike should be at my house in 2-3 weeks!! Very excited
 
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