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It Finally Happened, Mechanical Seal Leak

3K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  edinlr 
#1 ·
I noticed that little puddle under the bike today. Got a job to do, soon.
What do I need to fix this???? Does the regular mechanical seal work for the CX500 Turbo?????
Any thing special or tricky I should look for??? I have done sever mechanical seals in
normally aspirated CX500s but not a Turbo. I guess I will get a new experience.
Any help will be appreciated. I have the big green shop manual, that should help.
 
#2 ·
I've wandered in here by accident but have helped to replace one in a turbo once. It is the normal CX mech. seal and the turbo being an 82 the currently available 28.3 mm seal will fit straight in without modification to the rear cover. There are a few differences with the coolant pump itself due to something to do with the spark system in the same area on the turbo.
 
#3 ·
You remove the pump and replace the seal. Not like the N/A versions where you're supposed to remove the engine.
The 650 is extremely easy and took less than an hour. 500 will have a few more things in the way but shouldn't be much more difficult. I also changed my 500's but it was during a stator replacement so the engine was already out.
 
#4 ·
Sounds pretty easy compared with removing the engine. I am a little concerned about the speed sensor
that is in the area of the water pump. That is covered in the manual so I should be able to navigate that.
Do I need to remove the fuel injectors???? While I am in the area I would like to replace the fuel filter.
The PO took out the filter and replaced it with 2 plastic see through units. I would like to get back to
original if possible. Where can I get a filter like or similar to the original??? The weather is turning cold
again and my shop is not heated, there may be some delay.
 
#5 ·
Shouldn't have to remove the injectors.

The fuel filter is a "draw through" type, so isn't under any substantial pressure... the pump sucks through the filter, doesn't pressurize it. If you can't find OEM type replacement, you will have to ensure it can flow sufficient fuel though, so keep that in mind.
 
#7 ·
Looks like I will tear it down then search for the parts I need.
I will check out the sensors and replace them if that is the standard procedure.
Got to see them before I order new ones.
 
#8 ·
There's not much to "tear down". I think it was 6 bolts and the impeller nut and you're there. Replacing the sensors is NOT the standard procedure. Only replace them if they're completely corroded from coolant that's been leaking for a long time.
Applying EVEN pressure with two flat blade screwdrivers on each side of the impeller will usually get it off. Once the housing is out, I put it on the workbench, punched out the old seal and used a 1" 12 point socket to tap the new seal in place.
When you reinstall the impeller, use a new copper washer and torque the cap nut to the specs listed in the shop manual. Make sure the impeller is fully seated! The torque is very little and if there is any crud in the way, the impeller may not be seated even though your torque wrench reading is correct. If it didn't seat, you'll have a huge leak and need to take the WP cover off again and retorque the impeller nut.
It's been a long time since I've done a seal, but I think Loctite was also required on the impeller nut.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Rainy day, cold and dark in my shop, not gonna spend much time out here.. Got the tank and seat off and what
I see is the intake tubes and fuel injectors. Before I do something stupid, what needs to come off to get to the water-pump???
Looks like removing the left side intake would let me in. Where to now. I am not afraid of this but there must be a right and
wrong way to go about it.

Like I said it is cold and dark in my shop today. I took another look and the whole deal looks do-able, even with big hands.
When the weather gets better I will do it. The coolant in the bike has about 500 miles on it, can I salvage the coolant???
 
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