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Thread: triple bypass - cx500 Turbo 2

  1. #11
    Member demoderbydave's Avatar
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    Cool thread...but where are the PICTURES?

  2. #12
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Pictures are coming, I am sort of writing this up as I go along. I am taking plenty of pictures. I plan to go back in and edit responses to add supporting pictures, LOL Words are good, but PICs are worth 1000 words.
    demoderbydave likes this.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  3. #13
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Lets see, this morning I removed the back cover. All the fasteners came off very easily. I invested in a bunch of "T" wrenches. (metric hex, metric allen wrenches). One of the best investments I made. I really enjoy using them, even over impact wrenches and electric drivers. I have much better luck getting things off without chewing them up.

    I also invested in "JIS" screwdrivers. (Japenese Industral Screws) These are quite handy and work both for philips and JIS scres which is what is used in our motorcycles. GOOGLE JIS and read about it and you can see the difference. By using these, you are far less likely to strip out fasteners. Very nice screwdrivers.

    After removing all the fastners on the back cover, you will find that sucker is stuck on pretty well. The way to break the seal is go to the top of the cover and you will see a strong metal tab. grab a piece of wood or some object with rubber on it and set it against the tab. I used a rubber mallet and gave it a 2-4 fairly hard wacks to break the gasket seal. You want the cover spread about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

    after that, i did the rest by hand. You can get your fingers between the covers and slowly lift up rocking it ever so gently. IMPORTANT NOTE; Stop every once in a while and go down to the shift shaft and push it back in. If you keep lifting it off without doing this, the gear will come out with the cover. (that in itself is not bad, but there is a spring connected to it and you will stretch it out)

    keep lifting the cover say 1/4 inch at a time, then press the gear shaft down, go back to lifting and rocking and keep repeating this until the cover is off.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

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  5. #14
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    With the rear cover off, th next task is to remove the alternator. If you are following the manual (which is excellent) it talks about removing all the pickup sensors and everything. This is not necessary if you are only after the alternator.

    The first step is to remove the breather cover on the back, This is necessary as the wires for the alternator have a grommet that needs to come out. I found this to be a fairly easy task. Remove the bolts and get ready to break the gasket seal (this is the hardest part) There is no tab on the cover. What I did was something similar to removing the back cover though. If you look closey, you will find areas of the casting that are a little wider. This is enough to get a sharp object under the lip so you can wack it with a hammer. I used a flat blade screwdriver. Being I put the screwdriver in place and wacked it with a rubber mallot. Once I saw the gasket seal break, stop and you should be albe to work the rest of the cover off by hand.

    Inside there is a little dish with 2 bolts, Remove the screws and the dish.

    With the breather cover off, you can loosen the grommets out of the slide for the alternator and get them loose. Carefully feed them through and out to the inside of the back cover. The only sensitive part is getting the grommets and connector passed through between the casting and the wires for the pickup sensors. Carefully move the pickup wire out of the way as you feed the alternator wire back through. It does fit, just be careful not to damage or break the wires for the picup sensors or you will have more work.

    Loosen the three bolds holding in the alternator and remove the alternator.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  6. #15
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Next step is to clean up the old gasket material from the flange. At this point, I applied some gasket remover and am letting it sit. I will update you how this step goes.

    Don't panic cuz I seem to be taking long. I am on vacation, but I go down, do a task, come up, have a cup of coffee. go back do another task, maybe watch an episode of Gunsmoke or Bonanza. Then go back down and continue.

    If one was more focused than I, the task could be done much faster. I think I read a thread where someone claimed to do this the alternator change in an afternoon/day. After doing this, That could be done if one was in a race. However, I find it to be a good time to clean up everything. Depending how deep you go with this task, really dictates how long the job does. I myself take the opportunity to clean and degrease everything form many many many years of use (non-use) what ever the case may be. I clean out connectors, maybe strip and repaint parts like heat shields and mufflers. This is the stuff that takes time.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

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