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Thread: triple bypass - cx500 Turbo 2

  1. #1
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    triple bypass - cx500 Turbo 2

    Hello all,

    As some of you may know, I have a couple cx500tc that I purchased (father/son duo). One with 19000 miles and the other with 20000 miles. Shortly after buying them, the stators when out on both bikes. I put about 100 miles on one and 150 miles on the other. bummer.

    I did a triple bypass on the first bike last winter. Today, I started the process of the triple bypass on the second bike.

    I got my lift table freed up and have everything setup in my basement where it is nice and warm. The bike is up on the lift which makes things really nice. I am just to old to be getting down on my knees all the time. I am really liking the lift

    Everything going pretty well thus far. This ones seems more straight forward after doing one of these.

    Thus far, only run into a couple stubborn rusted bolts. A common ailment when working on these old bikes. I used the MOUSE MILK penetrating oil that I recently purchased. I was able to get everything free.

    Its funny that the problem areas are never the same on different bikes. The first bolt That I had trouble with was one of the upper radiator bolts (really stubborn) Could not even get it with my impact wrench. After soaking with penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer, I was able to remove the bolt using a 1/2 inch impact socket (6-sided) with a breaker bar. Came loose pretty easily.

    The second problem area was one of the screws holding in the heat shield. Again, I used the MOUSE MILK penetrating oil and tapped on the screw. I tried using my JIS impact screw driver, but I could not get it to budge. I soaked it over and over, then a few hours later, i went down and tapped on it some more. I took a vise grips and bit into it (I HATE USING VISE GRIPS on things) It was a bitch, but I finally got it to move and got the thing out.

    So at this point, I have


    - drained oil ad coolant
    - removed seat and gas tank
    - removed front fairing
    - removed instrument cluster
    - removed fairing mouting bracket
    - removed radiator
    - removed exaust
    - removed heat shields.

    This is about as far as I will get tonight.

    Besides the triple bypass, I will be doing a lot of clean-up. Bike is pretty grimy after all this time. Will also be doing quite a bit of painting on the heat shields and exhaust. I will update this post as I go along Pics to come,

    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  2. #2
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    Rusted, frozen and rounded bolts and screws were the bain of my life when I started work on mine last year - woops, year before last! Found them just about everywhere. I am still completing my list of 101 ways of freeing up an unwilling bolt. Good luck with the triple - it's all downhill once you get the damn thing apart!
    Last edited by Chilliphil; 01-04-2016 at 04:58 AM.
    1980 CX500A (UK)
    Start each day with a smile, and get it over with.

  3. #3
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Well, moving pretty slow on this project. Actually not bad as I worked on it a couple hours before, and a few hours tonight. Got everything removed and diconnected, Next step is to place a jack underneath and drop the motor.

    Things going pretty well, Helped that I did this before, as I pretty much know what to expect. Turbo looks really good, spins very nice and no movement (side to side in the shaft) When I bought these things, the turbo going out was one of my biggest fears, but both bikes they looked really good. Some carbon buildup on the exhaust side, but that is to be expected.

    I have a lot of cleanup to do on these. The actual triple bypass is pretty straight forward, manual is excellent. but as you start doing this job, you just want to get in and clean everything while you have it this far. That is what takes the longest.

    I just picked up a sandblast cabinet and got that together so that should make some of the work of cleaning up parts like heat shields easier than last time. Picked up an oven to bake the parts in and also to cure powder coat. This bike should be pretty nice when I get it all cleaned up, was in great shape before I started.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Old Okie's Avatar
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    I envy your basement, my barn is cold as hell so there are lots of days that nothing gets done.
    20 some years ago I restored an MGB and I had a wood burning stove in the barn but I have no heat now.
    You are right, the lift is a must for us older guys. I have had one for several years and I could not work on these
    projects without it. Good luck on your triple by-pass, mine is done and all I have left to take care of is that noisy clutch.
    Not quite, the XS650 Yamaha, my nephews '78 CXC500, several lawn mowers and a John Deere Tractor/Mower
    for the kids to play with and 1 electric dirt bike and 2 electric scooters, gotta get busy.
    1979 CX500C (Marshall's bike)

    1981 Yamaha XS650 (New Adventure)

    1979 Honda CB400T II (Rescued Bike)

    1972 Suzuki RV90(for the grandkids)Ole Smokey

  6. #5
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    OK, First, I want no comments on why this is taking so long,LOL The main reason is I just haven't worked on it. To many other things to do.LOL

    Anyway, I got all fired up to get this one done. After all, I did this before on another bike so I should be an old pro now right?

    Dropped the engine, Removed the coolant pipe and intake manifold to get access to the rear cover.

    Jumped into the water pump removal, the bolts broke free fairly easily. Some look like shit, corroded wit white stuff, but this can be taken care of easily.

    Removed the nut and copper washer from the impeller, all going quite well at this point.

    Next step is to remove the water pump impeller. From the other bike, I remember that was easy. However, this is where I run into problems. The water pump impeller seems fairly frozen on the crankshaft or at least it is very tight.

    Last thing I want to do is snap the crankshaft, so I have some questions from others on how to proceed.

    At this point, I am soaking it with "Mouse Milk" penetrating oil.

    1) does anyone recall if the impeller is splined, does it have a woodruf key, or is it just slide onto the crankshaft over the crankshaft?
    2) Is there some sort of small puller I should be using to make this job easier and reduce the risk of snapping the crankshaft
    3) If anyone else ran into this, Looking for ideas and suggestions.

    john
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  7. #6
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    OK, guys and gals, Got the impeller off.

    In looking at some other posts in both the turbo and non turbo forums, I did notice that the impeller was splined. After soaking with mouse milk, I grabbed it carefully with a wide pliers and gently rocked back and forth while pulling up.

    again, I was gentle cuz i did not want to break off one of the cast impellers. Seemed to work good. I was able to rock it slightly and with a constant upward pull, it came off fairly easily.

    Looks like the par of the mechanical seal (white puck) is embedded in the bottom of the impeller.
    Last edited by johnste1960; 12-27-2016 at 08:33 PM.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  8. #7
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    However, The next step was to remove the collar along with the rotor. Once again, the collar seems to be stuck on the camshaft. I am soaking it with mouse milk.

    NOTE; for others who have not done this, when you get the collar and the rotor off, be very careful not to loose the pin that goes into the rotor (see the expanded blown up view if you do not know what I am talking about) That sucker is very small an can get lost quite easily.

    So once again, I am looking for some ideas on how to get this collar off. I will continue with the mouse milk, but I will not really be able to rock it from side to side due to the length of the collar on the shaft.

    john
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  9. #8
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    OK, got the collar off. I tell you that "MOUSE MILK" is really good stuff. Best penetrating oil I have ever used by far. For those of you not familiar with it, it is the same stuff that is recommended to be used to free stuck waste gates. Just google MOUSE MILK. I believe it is used in aerospace applications. Can withstand higher temperatures as a lubricant, thus the use on the waste gates. My shop will never be without this.

    Anyway, soaked the collar with the MOUSE MILK, you could see the stuff soak right in. Against my better judgement, I used a vise grips as I just could not get a good hold of it with anything else. I grabbed with the end where the finer bite threads are. I used it to grab the wide part of the collar just above the top of the rotor. With this, I was able to twist it a little back and forth. I continued this with adding more MOUSE MILK. Over time, I was able to rotate the collar on the shaft. Once I could rotate it fairly easily, (it still was a bit stiff) I added more MOUSE MILK an as I rotated, I pulled upward with one hand while rotating with the other. Oh yeah, I moved the vise grip from the wide part on the bottom of the collar to the narrow shaft portion of the collar. Doing this allowed me to pull upward easier as I twisted back and forth. I still used the fine bite towards the end of the vise grips. I got the collar off without chewing it up to badly.

    NOTE: If I were doing this again, I think I would wrap the collar with some electrical tape or duct tape or rubber wrap or something to protect it more. I do not believe I will have problems, from what I remember, this one was in better shape than the previous bike I did. Far less corrosion on the outer part of the collar.

    IF SOMEONE HAS A BETTER METHOD THEY WOULD LIKE TO RECOMMEND, REPLY TO THE THREAD SO OTHERS CAN TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE INFO. I HAVE USED THE ABOVE APPROACH ON TWO BIKES NOW WITHOUT ISSUE.

    Next is the removal of the rotor. Need to be more careful with that as that part is part of the timing circuit for the pickup coils. Do not want to damage the rotor, I believe it to be magnetic so i do not want to damage any magnetic properties
    Last edited by johnste1960; 12-27-2016 at 09:51 PM.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  10. #9
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, In looking at the pickup coils for the speed sensor, They look to be really corroded. The bike ran fine when I started this effort. At this point, I will clean them them up and see what they look like. I may just do the speed sensor update described by Pete. (CXTURBOBOOST). I did not do this on the other bike as the sensors themselves looked to be in good shape. These are electrical pickups vs mechanical, so there really is no wear. These sensors look much worse, so we well evaluate after cleanup to determine if the speed sensor update will be done.
    Last edited by johnste1960; 12-27-2016 at 09:53 PM.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

  11. #10
    Senior Member johnste1960's Avatar
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    Rotor came off fine. Lubed it with MOUSE MILK and let it sit. Then wrapped it with some thick cloth material and grabbed it with a wide pliers. Twisted it back and forth until in moved on the shaft. (Note that because it is keyed with a pin, you cannot fully rotate it on the shaft). Once I got some movement, I added more lubricant, and then continued twisting back and forth while using my other hand to pull upward. It slid off easily.

    I am now ready to remove the back cover. Will tackle this tomorrow morning.
    Current Bikes: cx500t1, cx500t2, cx500t3=UK version, cx650t 1979 CBX zx750E1 (750 turbo#1), zx750E2(750turbo#2 -parts bike but planning to completely rebuild), zx750E1(750turbo#3 -high performance build, shooting for 150HP), 1973 H1-500, 1974 H1-500, 1974 H2-750, 2014 BMW K1600GTL-Exclusive, 1984 Honda Interceptor 1000:blob10:


    Previous Bikes: CB500T, 1974 Kawasaki 900 z1, 1989 Yamaha Vmax, 2008 HD soft tail custom

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