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camshaft oil seal

6K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  manwhore 
#1 ·
I think a camshaft oil seal has gone , I have a cx 500 engine on my trike which is new to me .Last week I noticed a slight water leak from the rear of the engine which I found out to be coming from a small hole designed to allow water to escape if the mechanical seal is leaking , anyway for a " quick fix" I put some stuff in called RADWELD ,helps stop small leaks etc ,this has stopped the water but i'm now getting a small amount of oil.

Loooking at a pic I see the camshaft seals are behind the water pump etc . does this sound like a seal has gone on the shaft and if so can it be replaced with engine in ?

billy
 
#2 ·
the mech seal is probably torn up and it may even be oil with a but of ground up graphite

look up mech seal replacement

in the general section then quick reference (tons of good stuff here scroll down)

http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-discussion/10-quick-reference.html

if it is oil out the weeping hole then you have to do the engine out method

CX500 GL500 650 Global ? View topic - Engine out Yamaha Mechanical Seal

and dont forget to flush that crap out of your cooling system before it plugs the rad tubes and grinds the new mech seal up
 
#4 ·
Hi, the engine number is CX500E2211862 At a wild guess was this manufactured 22/11/86 ???

Engine in would be ideal really , although out and I could paint the frame etc but as it's new to me I would rather do it in the bike and get some miles on it while we have the sun..

billy
 
#6 ·
Hi, the engine number is CX500E2211862 At a wild guess was this manufactured 22/11/86 ???
Think about it. If it was actually made on 22/11/86 (which it wasn't), it would be made on the same day as probably hundreds of others too. Would they all be given the same engine number? :confused:

I think it ​may be from a 1980 CX500A, as their engine numbers all commence CX500E-22xxxxx
 
#9 ·
Wolfgang , i'm new to this bike so not sure where to look . I have seen a few boxes round the battery area whilst fixing the back end but not sure what they were . I will post a video later which will probably be better so people can see what's there instead of me trying to explain what I see.. Thanks for your time
 
#10 ·
This is from the Wiki:

[h=2]Here is a post from Cobram on engine numbers and their year of use:[/h]
CX500 1978
Frame: CX500-2000001 ~
Engine: CX500E-2000001 ~

CX500 1979
Frame: CX500-2100001 ~
Engine: CX500E-2100006 ~

CX500C 1979
Frame: PC01-2000017 ~
Engine: PC01E-2000017 ~

CX500C 1980
Frame: PC01-2100018 ~
Engine: PC01E-2100019 ~

CX500C 1981
Frame: JH2PC0103BM200006 ~
Engine: PC01E-2200006 ~

CX500C 1982
Frame: JH2PC0109CM300001 ~
Engine: PC01E-2300001 ~

CX500D 1979
Frame: PC01-4000005 ~
Engine: PC01E-4000005 ~

CX500D 1980
Frame: PC01-4100002 ~
Engine: PC01E-4100003 ~

CX500D 1981
Frame: JH2PC0113BM200001 ~
Engine: PC01E-4200011 ~

CX500TC 1982
Frame: JH2PC0307CM000017 ~
Engine: PC03E-2001091 ~


GL500 - Silver Wing
1981 GL500
- Frame: JH2PC0200BM000022
- Engine: PC02E-2000023

1981 GL500I
- Frame: JH2PC0213BM000007
- Engine: PC02E-2000183

1982 GL500
- Frame: JH2PC0208CM100001
- Engine: PC02E-2100001

1982 GL500I
- Frame: JH2PC0217CM100001
- Engine: PC02E-2100001
 
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#15 · (Edited)
This is from the Wiki:

Here is a post from Cobram on engine numbers and their year of use:


CX500 1978
Frame: CX500-2000001 ~
Engine: CX500E-2000001 ~

CX500 1979
Frame: CX500-2100001 ~
Engine: CX500E-2100006 ~

CX500C 1979
Frame: PC01-2000017 ~
Engine: PC01E-2000017 ~

CX500C 1980
Frame: PC01-2100018 ~
Engine: PC01E-2100019 ~

CX500C 1981
Frame: JH2PC0103BM200006 ~
Engine: PC01E-2200006 ~

CX500C 1982
Frame: JH2PC0109CM300001 ~
Engine: PC01E-2300001 ~

CX500D 1979
Frame: PC01-4000005 ~
Engine: PC01E-4000005 ~

CX500D 1980
Frame: PC01-4100002 ~
Engine: PC01E-4100003 ~

CX500D 1981
Frame: JH2PC0113BM200001 ~
Engine: PC01E-4200011 ~

CX500TC 1982
Frame: JH2PC0307CM000017 ~
Engine: PC03E-2001091 ~


GL500 - Silver Wing
1981 GL500
- Frame: JH2PC0200BM000022
- Engine: PC02E-2000023

1981 GL500I
- Frame: JH2PC0213BM000007
- Engine: PC02E-2000183

1982 GL500
- Frame: JH2PC0208CM100001
- Engine: PC02E-2100001

1982 GL500I
- Frame: JH2PC0217CM100001
- Engine: PC02E-2100001
Those lists don't cover the 'Standard' CX500 models that were imported into Europe, South Africa and Australia in 1980, and only into Europe in 1981. These were the A (1980) and B (1981) models, both fitted with CDI ignition (there was also the rare CX500C for 1982, which is still a 'standard type, not custom, but with transistorised ignition). All CX500A models had engine numbers commencing CX500E-22 (bar the German restricted-power model, which commenced CX500E-31) . The 1981 CX500B models had engine numbers commencing CX500E-23 (again except the German restricted-power model, which commenced CX500E-32).

This information is from my Honda CX500 Parts Catalogue (number 3).
 
#11 ·
I used Wolfgang's method to replace a leaking mechanical seal after doing a triple bipass on my bike, with success. It required building a few tools which I thought was far easier than removing the engine again. My thread with some pics and other info Wolfgang posted for me are here; http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-discussion/25489-mechanical-seal-help.html . Information is there to allow for pulling both the mechanical seal and the oil seal. I think what is being determined now is if your bike has a mechanical seal with the same OD as the oil seal which would allow the oil seal to be removed and replaced through that opening, or if it is smaller which would not allow it without enlarging the opening which some have done to install the slightly larger mechanical seal found in the later bikes. It looks like your bike probably has the larger seal. I would agree with Murray, who has much more experience than I do with these bikes, that it would probably be a good idea to replace the mechanical seal while you are in there. Also, the old mechanical seal could be damaged in the removal process. Best of luck with it.

If you folks with more experience find any flaws in this please make corrections.

Steve D
 
#17 ·
Billy, we've determined you have a TI electronic ignition. And I strongly suggest you remove that "quick fix" stuff from the weep hole. Otherwise your coolant could push past the seal and into the oil.....or vice versa, I can't remember. Either way, that hole needs to be clear.

Joel in the Couve
 
#20 ·
The Radweld liquid doesn't care if it's filled in a rad from a car or a bike.

@Billy/manwhore:
The reason for my asking for the engine number and the ignition type is: will a Yamaha mech. seal fit without to use a Dremel tool.
Now I'm rather sure.

Auto part Metal


When you followed the link in this posting to "my change the two seals with engine in frame" and You have basic mechanical skills i can send these tools to Manchester. You use it and send it back to me. A new mechanical water pump seal (from TourMax) I have also here for a good price.

You just have to buy (Honda or DavidSilverSpares) the oil-O-ring, a new copper washer and the o-ring like seal for the water pump cover.


Gruesse
WolFgang.

PS: To your video for the distance between the brake rotor and the fork tube, ... some days ago we had good pictures for the possible, normal gap between them. Try a search to find this posting.
 
#21 ·
Wolfgang ,that's very nice of you. Fortunatly the oil seems to be stopping , I rode about 50 miles the other day and only a few drips of oil . I'm hoping maybe the seal had dried and shrunk a bit after not being run for a while and now it's on the road hopefully the seal is softening up and expanding a bit .. I will keep my eye on it this week and hopefully it will stop .

The bike hadn't been rode for nearly a year ,the petrol was brown .

billy
 
#24 ·
No but cracking stuff for minor water leaks in a system , used some in my MPV 6 years back and held to date without issue . The guy at my local spares shop often demonstrates with a small bucket of water with a small hole in the bottom and you can see the stuff actually working . he uses this method to demonstrate between good and bad quality products ..
 
#25 ·
It's a puzzle to me to understand how this stuff could possibly stop the leak at anyplace except the weep hole, but then there's a lot I don't know. If it were me, and I was going to depend on this as a permanent fix, I would surely be checking the oil for coolant and the coolant for oil fairly often. I hope this works for you because it is a lot easier than going the other way.

Just my 2c.

Steve D
 
#26 ·
It's a puzzle to me to understand how this stuff could possibly stop the leak at anyplace
I have read another trick:
Put some spoonful of pepper -or was it paprika?- mixed with water into the rad. This would close little leaks.
Some user confirmed this method.

I don't know what organic stuff can do this.

To stop a leak from the outside with a chewed bubble gum, this trick I had to test twice. And it sealed good.
 
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