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tap tap tap

3K views 32 replies 5 participants last post by  simplykeith 
#1 ·
When I start my bike I hear a light tap tap tap but it seems to smooth out at about 65-70 mph, the faster i ride i notice that the bike get quieter an smoother, an when I first take off in first gear i hear a clunk when release the clutch its been happening since day one I'm not sure if it's normal
 
#6 ·
CDI Gaskets? That is a new one for me. The CDI is a little box with wires located under your seat near the back.

Do you have a water or oil leak at the rear of your engine? If so, you are looking at a water pump seal replacement (antifreeze leaking from the left side of the engine case from the water pump weep hole.)

If you are leaking oil from the rear there is a pulser cover plate gasket (has 4 or 5 bolt holes)
Oil from the bottom left could be the oil seal on the gearshift shaft (Easy Fix usually)
There are a few other places leaks could be coming from.
I think a bit more information and or pictures will get a much better answer for you.
 
#8 ·
This is probably what you need.
11432-415-306 GASKET, PULSER COVER
or you can make your own. Its just to contain splash no real pressure to contain so it's not all that fussy about the gasket material used.

Check the FSM to be sure but I think you will have to remove the overflow bottle, I can't think you will have to take the carbs off. It will be tight but do-able ;-)
 
#9 ·
Mine is getting put back together so I went out and took a picture of that cover. My carbs are currently off but there seems to be room enough to change that out even if they were still connected
 
#11 · (Edited)
I got the pulser cover gasket on I had to drop the exhaust an move the overflow bottle around because it has a hump that wouldn't allow it to be removed from the bike,easy once the bottle can be move excerpt for the bottom bolt.
Now I have water running out the peep hole again, the mechanical seal I think went out again, the water coming out is worst than before
 
#12 ·
Don't feel bad, I just replaced the stator and got the engine back in the frame, added water and it runs out the weep hole in a steady stream. I replaced everything in the water pump. Seal, spacer, crush washer, polo mint, even the nut was new. I put some dish soap on the mine to lube it till the antifreeze was added and the cap nut is tightened to spec but still water just pours out of the hole. I'm at a loss and not sure what to do now
 
#13 ·
A leak that large generally indicates something broken in the mech seal.

Pull your carbs and the pump cover and impeller and take a look.

Also look very closely first to make sure it is not actually coming from the O ring on the end of the chrome tube where it enters the pump cover.
 
#14 ·
Excellent idea. I had a B***H of a time replacing the bottom hose.
Had to remove the transfer tube twice to finally get it installed.
Cut 2 o-rings in half during the process.
It was after dark when I got to add water and saw the leak.
I HOPE it is only coming from the tube. ;-)
 
#16 · (Edited)
Sorry keith, did not mean to hi-jack your thread ;-)
Clean and smooth CHECK
Right Size o-ring (Was using harbor freight o-ring kit - 22 X 3 not exact size)
Used antifreeze as a lube, same as I use for sex sooooo its all good CHECK
-------

Went out and checked found this:


I think this MAY be the problem...
I just ordered 4 from Partzilla, 4 in case I mess up 2 or 3 times.:D

Thank you CXPHREAK
 
#17 ·
I never took the chrome tube off water pump I took it off in one piece. I just double checked it's coming from the weep hole. I just replaced the mechanical seal an now it's faulty, ok let me take these carbs off take a peek, something about removing the carbs gets me, it's so tight is there a way to make a little room ?
 
#20 ·
I just unbolted the carb manifolds on the engine side and loosened the clamps on the back of the carbs. Popped them off, cables and all intact and looped them over the left handlebar. as easy a popping off the seat and gas tanks actually.
 
#18 ·
Umm... You are removing the carbs to make room in there to work on the water pump.....

Did you replace the copper washer? What kind of nut did you use? If it is not a cap nut coolant can leak along the threads and past the splines...
 
#19 ·
I'm in the water pump an i no I torque the impeller nut down. I notice that the bolt came off before because when I first took the water pump cover off the inside wasn't smooth I thought it might of happened when mechanical seal went bad an the impeller hit it but now I see that the nut came off an scared it the inside. This one got me
 
#23 ·
The washer that goes between the nut and the impeller is made of soft copper so that it can deform slightly and act as a seal. When copper washers are under pressure for extended time they can become "work hardened" so that they no longer seal properly. In some cases (like the copper washers on brake line banjo bolts) you can anneal them and re-use them, but the thickness of this one is critical so you are better to replace it.
 
#27 ·
Still waiting for my test ride. Nearly have it all back together but waiting on some o-rings for the transfer tube and the ones for the intake next to the cylinder head. Old ones fell apart when I went to put the carbs back on. Seems they only had a 35 year life span.:(
 
#31 ·
Turn your motor from the 17mm bolt on the front of the crankshaft, behind the small, round cover just below the radiator. It's a lot easier.

If you have them use a straight breaker bar on the socket. You can stop the motor turning on the marks with this. With a ratchet the motor tends to spin past the marks.

Remove the sparkplugs, this makes things easier.

If all the valves don't move rotate the engine one full turn back to the marks and check again.

If you've done them on the wrong stroke already pull the motor through two full turns. You will find one where the exhausts valves gap is huge {this is your noise}. Make the adjustment here.
 
#32 · (Edited)
That sounds easier will do. Ok lol found the compression stroke an filler gauged them i didnt have a .003:in but have a .004 in sovi just tighten up just a bit more on intake valves, right side of motor still has a good tic tic tic sound a little bit louder than the left side
 
#33 ·
I notice that the adjusting screw on the exhaust valve are not sitting flat like the intake valves side. I couldn't adjust the exhaust valves because if the wore adjusting screw so I did . It by ear an feel, the bike now sounds better an no tic tic tic.
 
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