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Wrist pain from riding

2K views 25 replies 18 participants last post by  TheWiscoKid 
#1 ·
I've got some pain in my right wrist, likely from my new bike. The Internet is full of advice on this, but a lot of it contradicts itself. I imagine I'm holding onto the throttle too tightly, but I still have a sore wrist despite consciously trying to keep a loose grip. It's a damned inconvenience.

Also, I see a lot of comments from guys who use their legs to hug the bike frame, for extra control. With the cylinders placed the way they are on the CX500, I burn my knees if I keep them too close to the bike.

Any suggestions on these?
 

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#2 ·
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#4 ·
Many things can contribute. Sometimes a simple adjustment of the handlebars can change the geometry. Or going to a different bar altogether. The grips may be worn, and there are some very nice aftermarket grips available fairly cheap that are a big help. The throttle locks around are a good idea in some cases. Some work better for some, and others work better for others.

Basically, it's not a simple one off answer, you will have to experiment with settings to find something that works for you. Body size, shape, length of arms, legs, etc. can all have an effect.

The WIKI below may have some tips for you to search through, as well as the forum search using at least 3 characters.

Joel in the Couve
 
#6 ·
Are you leaning foreward any?
This will add pressure to your wrists and cause pain.
Changing the height of the bars slightly will aleviate this considerably.
You can do this by tilting the bars foreward which will also raise the grip area up and make you sit more upright.
 
#7 ·
Im a physical therapist assistant and have several certifications in bicycle fitting. Im sure motorcycles aren't too far off. Granted bicycles are easier to adjust and fit but the principles are the same.

Its tough to say without seeing you on the bike, but a few things to think about...

First start out with seating position, can you sit with your feet on the pegs and have your knees off the motor? If not slide your but back farther to allow your knees to clear. If you don't have enough room and are already at the back of the seat you're probably going to need to get a single longer seat...

second, Can you reach the bars from that point? If you can comfortably reach your bars... Do you have a relaxing bend in your elbows? If not you may need to adjust by getting bars that move closer or further away from you. If your arms are straight and locked at the elbows, you will lean your upper body weight onto your hands and wrists. (not to mention its not as safe riding with locked out arms, look into core and back strengthening program if all the biometrical stuff is okay) Try and make sure you're properly seated on the bike. Thats why I fit bikes around the seating and hip angle first...

Third, wrist and hand angle. Make sure your hands and wrists are straight and not cocked to the thumb or pinkie side. If you can grip the handlebars with your hands and fingers wrapping around the grips evenly without this lateral deviation you're probably okay, but if you lack the range and have to squeeze hard of onside of your palm harder to keep a good grasp you will need to find bars with the proper sweep angle to allow a comfortable grip.

fourth, Grip diameter can also be hard on the forearms if its too narrow. Thus looking for a larger grips.


In many cases people just get stiff and tight... We don't have enough range of motion and strength in the hips, back, shoulders and dump too much weight on the arms...


Hope this helps!!!
 
#10 ·
When I 1st got my old 72 CB750, one of the 1st things I did was change over to 8 inch Pull Back Handlebars. It had the old school Horn type bars, that turn in. That made both my wrist hurt for days. The Pull Backs brought the bars right to me, and in to my hand in a very natural position. Made a world of difference. I personally would sit on the bike, and take a tape measure to measure from where your hands are going to be in your natural riding position, to your current bar set up. Also measure the space between your hand in your normal riding position, and to the beginning of the grips. And notice the angle. If you're turning your wrist in, or out, unnaturally, you might want to change to a different type handlebar that is a more comfortable, natural fit. I honestly can't ride my Nephews "Crotch Rocket" because it doesn't even have handlebars. The grips on his bike just come straight out of the top of the triple tree, and in. You have to reach way over, and lean way in and reach for them, in a almost prone position. Very unnatural and next to impossible for my old, fat butt! So you might want to take some measurements, and see what works for you. Swapping out handlebars itself is easy. The hard part is sometimes needing longer brake/clutch/speedometer/tachometer cables. Depending on what you decide to go with. At 70 mph for hours at a time, I like to be as comfortable as possible.
 
#11 ·
A bike I bought had a cheap little plastic Crampbuster on it. takes about 5 seconds to take it off and put it on another bike so I can use it no matter which one I am on. The lower right wrist bone rests on it and does the job of holding the throttle where you want it. The hane then only needs to hang onto the grip without the need to hold the twist, the weight of the hand on the Crampbuster does that. So simple it is ridiculous. I don't like big foamy grips and don't like cruise control because you relinquish control with that , some irony there. I think I have seen them online for a few bucks, they are almost like earplugs, buy a few and leave them in a drawer or on your bike or give them away or whatever.
 
#13 ·
Hi Kilgour, May sound way off thread,but I have found since started riding my Silverwing with a backrest on the Solo trunck haven't had sore wrist at all. (Numb backside yes)might be something to think of. Cheers Gerard
 
#15 ·
Years ago I had a cruise lock gizmo that was adjustable, it basically added resistance to the return. A weaker spring gave me a similar result on another bike.
Did that make sense? :)
 
#16 ·
Most throttle locks are adjustable. I like to set mine up so that they have just enough drag to keep the twistgrip from moving on its own and that lets me move it whenever I want/need to without releasing the lock.

Re Gerard's backrest: Motorcycle ergonomics is another case of "everything affects everything else". I used to have agony in my knees (particularly the left one) if I spent more than about 40 minutes on Eccles. I realized that I could sit on the 'Wing for much longer periods with very little discomfort so I got out my tape measure one day and started figuring out the differences in the "feet-seat-hands" relationship. I fully expected to find that the footpegs were too high but the feet/seat part of the equation was extremely close. But I found that Eccles' handlebars were a little farther away and a bit lower. I couldn't find bars tall enough so I ordered a set of cheap risers. The E's handlebar mounting points are tilted towards the rear so 2.5" risers moved the bars up and to the rear enough to make a huge difference and the knee pain all but disappeared.
 
#17 ·
"and don't like cruise control because you relinquish control with that"
Depends on how you use it. I lock the throttle periodically to relax my right hand/wrist/arm by letting it hang down or move about. About 15-20 seconds works for me. Otherwise i'm not in "cruise control". And I would only do this when the conditions were reasonable to take a hand off the bars.
 
#19 ·
I do a lot of half and half 'in town / out of town' riding since I live on the edge of the metro area, so true cruise control doesn't do much for me. I have it on my CX, came with it, and only use it for riding to the South Dakota border or something like that. Otherwise, Crampbuster makes it a non-issue since my wrist bone resting on it is a default cruise control.
 
#18 ·
I tend to leave my throttle lock on a lot of the time. As long as its adjusted the way I described you actually have better control because you don't have to hold the grip to keep it from moving.
 
#21 ·
It should be noted that, no matter what the folks in marketing may call it, a throttle lock is not really a cruise control. A true cruise control monitors vehicle speed and opens or closes the throttle appropriately to maintain a constant speed up & down hills. A throttle lock merely prevents the throttle from closing if lift your hand off of the twistgrip.

This is a real cruise control. It isn't cheap. Home Page | Motorcycle Cruise Controls
 
#22 ·
the problem is the shape of the handlebars fitted to Custom bikes.

If you sit on your bike and extend your arms so your clasped hands are sitting on the handgrips ( like above the grips and not wrapped around the grips ) you will see that the natural position of your hands is totally differant to the position of the grips. The bars make your wrists sit in a completely un-natural positon , and then you have to twist your right wrist to activate the throttle...

Look at fitting some sensible shaped bars instead of those cow horns that werent cool even back in the 80?s....

Just my take on the issue . BTDT , still have the wrecked wrists to show for it .
 
#23 ·
With this simple and cheep "Oxford" palm / wrist supporter, I enjoy painless journeys without numbness and paresthesia of the right spanner claw.

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Auto part Wheel
 
#24 ·
I had similar problems with the GL500 buckhorn bars... the motion was more like working a screwdriver, and also pretty awkward for me when using the throttle with the bars turned, like when parking. Wrist pain aside, for me those bars were like wheelbarrow handles... only useful when leaning back in cruise, not moving the throttle.
I switched to "Daytona" style bars, which sweep back a bit less and have the grips more at a right angle to the centerline of the bike. With 2" risers, I now have my hands more or less where they were before, but with my wrists more perpendicular to my knuckles. More of a rolling wrist motion now, less twisting. Everybody is different, but this really helped me avoid pain and handle the bike better.
 
#25 ·
Throttle locks are where it is at, although I have done really long rides without them it still saves some trouble. On my CX500 I put some new Avon grips on and it really saved me a bunch of trouble. They are so sticky (not foam) that I barely even have to grab the grips to keep the throttle in position. Those grips are one of my favorite purchases I have ever made.

It also sounds like you are 6'5" and that's why your knees hit the heads... I have to lean back to get some warmth on my knees on cold days. Benefit of being 5'10" I guess.
 
#26 ·
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