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Thread: Wrist pain from riding

  1. #1
    Junior Member Kilgour's Avatar
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    Wrist pain from riding

    I've got some pain in my right wrist, likely from my new bike. The Internet is full of advice on this, but a lot of it contradicts itself. I imagine I'm holding onto the throttle too tightly, but I still have a sore wrist despite consciously trying to keep a loose grip. It's a damned inconvenience.

    Also, I see a lot of comments from guys who use their legs to hug the bike frame, for extra control. With the cylinders placed the way they are on the CX500, I burn my knees if I keep them too close to the bike.

    Any suggestions on these?
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    1979 CX500 Custom

  2. #2
    Member sarguy's Avatar
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    I have similar wrist pain when riding for a while. I'm considering one of the following:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055QOKC8...T0UBGIS5&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/Crampbuster-C...CKJXGHBWETNNQ9
    Kilgour likes this.

    1982 GL500 (not the Interstate)
    • To Do list:
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    • Install connector for Noco Genius charger Done June 2016
    • Learn to check/adjust tappets and chain tensioner. Done July 2016.
    • Replace leaking fork seals. Installed July 2016!
    • Buy and install a throttle assistant like a 2Wheel Ride Go Cruise or Crampbuster. Crampbuster purchased July 2016! Got a wide one and had to trim it down.


  3. #3
    Senior Member Steve1's Avatar
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    Cruise lock plus foam grips help.Name:  Kuryakyn cruise lock 002.JPG
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Size:  321.5 KB
    1982 Honda GL500 I SilverWing Interstate " Its not the destination but the journey and Ride Safe "

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    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    Many things can contribute. Sometimes a simple adjustment of the handlebars can change the geometry. Or going to a different bar altogether. The grips may be worn, and there are some very nice aftermarket grips available fairly cheap that are a big help. The throttle locks around are a good idea in some cases. Some work better for some, and others work better for others.

    Basically, it's not a simple one off answer, you will have to experiment with settings to find something that works for you. Body size, shape, length of arms, legs, etc. can all have an effect.

    The WIKI below may have some tips for you to search through, as well as the forum search using at least 3 characters.

    Joel in the Couve
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Thumper's Avatar
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    Check out Crampbuster.
    Cheap and effective.
    The 2,4,10 rule: know what is happening 2 seconds, 4 seconds and 10 seconds down the road.

    Current: '03 Kawasaki ZZR1200, '84 Kawasaki GPZ900R, '84 VF500F Interceptor, '83 GL650I, '81 CX500C, '82 GL500I project, '81 CX500C basket case, '79 CB750LTD, '85 CB700SC, '01 Kawasaki ZRX1200R, '72 Yamaha G7S

  7. #6
    OCR
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    Senior Member OCR's Avatar
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    Are you leaning foreward any?
    This will add pressure to your wrists and cause pain.
    Changing the height of the bars slightly will aleviate this considerably.
    You can do this by tilting the bars foreward which will also raise the grip area up and make you sit more upright.
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  8. #7
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    Im a physical therapist assistant and have several certifications in bicycle fitting. Im sure motorcycles aren't too far off. Granted bicycles are easier to adjust and fit but the principles are the same.

    Its tough to say without seeing you on the bike, but a few things to think about...

    First start out with seating position, can you sit with your feet on the pegs and have your knees off the motor? If not slide your but back farther to allow your knees to clear. If you don't have enough room and are already at the back of the seat you're probably going to need to get a single longer seat...

    second, Can you reach the bars from that point? If you can comfortably reach your bars... Do you have a relaxing bend in your elbows? If not you may need to adjust by getting bars that move closer or further away from you. If your arms are straight and locked at the elbows, you will lean your upper body weight onto your hands and wrists. (not to mention its not as safe riding with locked out arms, look into core and back strengthening program if all the biometrical stuff is okay) Try and make sure you're properly seated on the bike. Thats why I fit bikes around the seating and hip angle first...

    Third, wrist and hand angle. Make sure your hands and wrists are straight and not cocked to the thumb or pinkie side. If you can grip the handlebars with your hands and fingers wrapping around the grips evenly without this lateral deviation you're probably okay, but if you lack the range and have to squeeze hard of onside of your palm harder to keep a good grasp you will need to find bars with the proper sweep angle to allow a comfortable grip.

    fourth, Grip diameter can also be hard on the forearms if its too narrow. Thus looking for a larger grips.


    In many cases people just get stiff and tight... We don't have enough range of motion and strength in the hips, back, shoulders and dump too much weight on the arms...


    Hope this helps!!!
    Kilgour and Sidecar Bob like this.
    1980 CX 500C
    1983 CX 650C

  9. #8
    Member Wood Eye's Avatar
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    Dumb suggestion, are your controls clocked properly on the handlebars? Can change over time without being noticed.
    1979 CX500c


  10. #9
    Junior Member Kilgour's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if the throttle is properly clocked. I'll check with the shop this Friday. Good suggestion.

    Thanks for all the information! This'll help. New grips plus that Crampbuster may be the ticket.
    Wood Eye likes this.
    1979 CX500 Custom

  11. #10
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    When I 1st got my old 72 CB750, one of the 1st things I did was change over to 8 inch Pull Back Handlebars. It had the old school Horn type bars, that turn in. That made both my wrist hurt for days. The Pull Backs brought the bars right to me, and in to my hand in a very natural position. Made a world of difference. I personally would sit on the bike, and take a tape measure to measure from where your hands are going to be in your natural riding position, to your current bar set up. Also measure the space between your hand in your normal riding position, and to the beginning of the grips. And notice the angle. If you're turning your wrist in, or out, unnaturally, you might want to change to a different type handlebar that is a more comfortable, natural fit. I honestly can't ride my Nephews "Crotch Rocket" because it doesn't even have handlebars. The grips on his bike just come straight out of the top of the triple tree, and in. You have to reach way over, and lean way in and reach for them, in a almost prone position. Very unnatural and next to impossible for my old, fat butt! So you might want to take some measurements, and see what works for you. Swapping out handlebars itself is easy. The hard part is sometimes needing longer brake/clutch/speedometer/tachometer cables. Depending on what you decide to go with. At 70 mph for hours at a time, I like to be as comfortable as possible.
    Wood Eye likes this.

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