New CX500 - Page 2
Close
    
    
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 72
Like Tree14Likes

Thread: New CX500

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Lexington NC
    Posts
    20,048
    pull the plug caps apart and make sure you dont have a baked resistor in one or both

    maybe do the brass rod mod while you are in there
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

    Order The Quick Build Exhaust Pipes


    GET A QUICKSET VALVE TOOL


    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  2. #12
    Member TacoJockey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    46
    It's all good murray, no worries. Before I saw that you responded with the air filter idea I already pulled the carbs. Once I did look at the filter there was a strong fuel smell in the filter and box. I noticed that a lot of the hoses are in need of replacement too. Tonight or tomorrow I will look at the plugs and see if they are fouled up at all. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm new to the bike so I'll take any help I can get.
    81' CX500C
    NKY area

  3. #13
    Senior Member purplecx500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    2,132
    Check for flow out of petcock.

    Obviously lean fo some reason.

    Thus pulling the choke helped.

    Do your major tune up PM as per FSM .

    Don't rip the bike apart till you have determined

    the exact cause of problem.

    read this:::::::::::::: Sputtering at 5k rpm + / Stator testing


    save some expensive time and $$$$$$$$$$$ consuming

    self inflicted problems.

    this happens all the time and owners often give up

    and sell at a loss,rather than throwing more cash

    and time at it.
    nolimitz and cx500slacker like this.
    SideCar Bob's settings. http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-...ould-make.html
    Main Wiki you can search by topic: http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/inde...itle=Main_Page
    Old rant http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-...me-advice.html
    St
    StatorTest;;
    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/inde...itle=Main_Page
    'Eager" 1979 CX500C Maroon.
    Named for the way it runs/sounds @ 65 +

  4. Remove Advertisements
    CX500Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #14
    Member TacoJockey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    46
    Ok, where to start? As I said before, carbs are already out, to me, and some of my coworkers, it could only be the carb due to the fact that i had to have the carb half on to get it running. I haven't torn the carbs apart yet just taken them out. As I was taking them out I already found about 3 lines that are split and need replacing.

    Taking the spark plug wires off I found the right wire looks pretty corroded so I might do the brass rod mod tonight.

    Name:  IMG_4242.JPG
Views: 93
Size:  1.68 MBName:  IMG_4242.JPG
Views: 93
Size:  1.68 MB
    81' CX500C
    NKY area

  6. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,954
    Quote Originally Posted by TacoJockey View Post
    Ok, where to start?
    Start here:
    Check the spark plug cap for 5kOhm.
    Then make the stator test.

    ...and write down and send the Ohm values

    (I bet it's Ignitech time )

    Edit:
    Taking the spark plug wires off I found the right wire looks pretty corroded
    You can cut the end of the the wire for 5-7mm to get it "un-corroded")
    Last edited by guelli02; 04-12-2017 at 08:26 AM.

  7. #16
    Administrator ChopperCharles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    What year is your bike? If it's an 82, (or a GL500) you can simply replace the plug wires. If it's a 78-81 cx500, you'll need to trim the wires as Murray stated, since the wires are part of the coils on those years. The brass rod is easy, cheap, and works wonderfully. It's one of the first modifications I do to any CX500. It's a reliability/maintenance issue. I also suggest replacing the vacuum petcock (if so equipped) with a manual petcock, and blocking off the vacuum ports on the carb. Old petcocks aren't worth messing with. They'll always start leaking fuel or vacuum, and they're inexpensive enough to just replace. New thermostat and a radiator flush is next. Then if I'm not interested in OEM perfection, I replace the master cylinder. The plastic reservoir turns brittle and flaky, and a brand new quality master cylinder is cheap on the 'bay. Not worth rebuilding, just replace it with a new item with the same bore. (And possibly get an adjustable lever and matching clutch perch out of it too). Also, replace the drain plug washer. The PO probably never has, and a new one will keep drips at bay for a long time. The last thing is much more time and labor intensive. Take the front caliper(s) apart, clean them extensively, replace the seals and all of the rubber booties on the sliding pins. Clean all the old grease off of the sliding pins and apply new grease. Replace the brake pads. REPLACE THE BRAKE LINES. This will save you hours and hours of headache trying to bleed your new hydraulic system. Consider checking your headlight to see if it's a sealed beam or a reflector with an H4 bulb. If it's a sealed beam, buy a reflector with an H4 bulb, the sealed beam is not long for this world, and it's much dimmer than the H4 setup. Check tires for cracking, and replace if necessary. Check your valve stems for cracking too! This is often overlooked! It's difficult to get to the rear valve stem, and you'll have to bend it to get the air chuck on at most service stations. I've had one rupture when I bent it to put air in the tire. (Fortunately in my driveway). There are 90 degree valve stems out there (check amazon) that make filling that rear tire SO much easier. ($5 or less and makes life so much easier)

    Charles.
    paulandmandy6 and MobileAZN like this.
    Visit my Blog: Modified Motorcycles By ChopperCharles at http://choppercharles.com

  8. #17
    Junior Member Sinjin90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    28
    Great info chopper

  9. #18
    Member TacoJockey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    46
    A lot of good info, thanks chopper. The left spark plug cap looked fine, the right cap looked a little rough. The resistor cap looked a little burnt and one side cap was broke off. I might just buy some new ones because they are different from each other. The left one has the long spring and the right one has the short spring and bar. Either way, I'm going to do the brass bar mod when I get the new ones.


    Right
    Name:  IMG_4256.JPG
Views: 72
Size:  2.01 MB





    Left
    Name:  IMG_4254.JPG
Views: 73
Size:  1.80 MB
    81' CX500C
    NKY area

  10. #19
    Member TacoJockey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    46
    Is the general consensus of the best place to get new spark plug caps at wemoto.com?

  11. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,954
    You own a multimeter ?

    Have you made an Ohm test before disassembling the plugs ?

    A long or a short spring will not change the Ohm readings.


    An old bike to ride without a multi-tester to own is pointless.
    Buying new plugs and installing a brass rod is just as pointless.

Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •