broken engine mount
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  1. #1

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    Hello everybody,



    When I was removing the fanguard I noticed that the bolt was loose and by further inspection I found out what you can see on the pictures, I don't know if welding is a option or some hightech glue, or a new crankcase or ignored it and hope for the best...what you think?






  2. #2
    Senior Member Allan's Avatar
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    Looks familiar,,





    Probably tipped over with an engine guard attached like mine had,,I took the engine guard off, there was no rash on it so I believe it fell over at low or no speed.



    I ignore it.
    ...and as the elders of our time choose to remain blind, let us rejoice and let us sing and dance and ring in the new. Hail Atlantis!

    1975 XL-100, 1978 CX500, 1980 CX500, 1981 CX500

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Blindstitch's Avatar
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    If you can find a person with a tig welder it will probably do the trick. Had a similar engine problem. That's the good part about 4 bolts to hold that area.
    1968 Honda CT90 Trail-Yellow Monster project
    1979 Honda CX500 Supertanker 72,000 miles.
    1983 Honda Gl650I Falcon-killer 78,000 miles.
    Pictures of my bikes Past and Present.



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  5. #4
    Senior Member ronj10's Avatar
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    Find a small body shop or similar weld shop that specializes in aluminum welding that is close to home.

    Also, casting welding is much different than other types of aluminum welding.

    Only use a welder that has experience with welding castings.

    Describe the problem over the phone and ask if they think it is possible, and maybe drive down and have them look at it.

    Bottom line is . . .



    If they can do it, and they think the weld will hold,try it out. $60 bucks is reasonable. If your lucky, they might even offer to redrill and tap the hole for an extra charge.

    After the welder had filled up the entire area with new metal, you will have to file the front flat so that you have a good surface to start a new hole with a center drill, than the tap drill, than tap the new hole for the proper thread.

    The welding can most likely be done with the engine still in the bike, though you will have to remove the gas tank, the one engine mount, and drain the oil. They will lay the bike down on its side on a wooden pallet, and lift the pallet with a fork lift to table height to work on. Easy.



    Get at least three opinions. Welders vary in thier skills and abilities. DO NOT have it done by a welder who says he will try but not guarentee anything. A good welder will have the experience to know for sure if it will work or not. In addition, honest ones will say they cannot do it, but know someone who can.

    I am a manufacturing engineer. I work with these people. The good ones know, they don't guess.

    The bad ones just want your money with no liability.

    Also, most welders are bikers. They may know a different way to fix it up that you may never have thought of.

    Hope that helps a bit.


    1983 CX650 Custom

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan View Post
    Looks familiar,,





    Probably tipped over with an engine guard attached like mine had,,I took the engine guard off, there was no rash on it so I believe it fell over at low or no speed.



    I ignore it.
    Hi Allen,



    So you drive around with it without problems, I am also intend to ignore it especially because it will be hard to found a tig welder who really knows what he is doing, here in the countryside of Thailand and I keep in mind that I have a downsleeved 400cc with 10 hp less, I think I give it a try because I want to be on the road again soon and maybe one day I found the right welder.



    Thanks Wim.

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronj10 CX650C View Post
    Find a small body shop or similar weld shop that specializes in aluminum welding that is close to home.

    Also, casting welding is much different than other types of aluminum welding.

    Only use a welder that has experience with welding castings.

    Describe the problem over the phone and ask if they think it is possible, and maybe drive down and have them look at it.

    Bottom line is . . .



    If they can do it, and they think the weld will hold,try it out. $60 bucks is reasonable. If your lucky, they might even offer to redrill and tap the hole for an extra charge.

    After the welder had filled up the entire area with new metal, you will have to file the front flat so that you have a good surface to start a new hole with a center drill, than the tap drill, than tap the new hole for the proper thread.

    The welding can most likely be done with the engine still in the bike, though you will have to remove the gas tank, the one engine mount, and drain the oil. They will lay the bike down on its side on a wooden pallet, and lift the pallet with a fork lift to table height to work on. Easy.



    Get at least three opinions. Welders vary in thier skills and abilities. DO NOT have it done by a welder who says he will try but not guarentee anything. A good welder will have the experience to know for sure if it will work or not. In addition, honest ones will say they cannot do it, but know someone who can.

    I am a manufacturing engineer. I work with these people. The good ones know, they don't guess.

    The bad ones just want your money with no liability.

    Also, most welders are bikers. They may know a different way to fix it up that you may never have thought of.

    Hope that helps a bit.
    Hi ron,



    Thanks for your reply, as you said you must find the right welder with experience in this kind of things, but that will be hard to find here, here in Thailand there is always a lot of guessing, but maybe one day I will find somebody.

    I will give it a try with 7 instead of 8 engine mountings especially if you know that I have a downsleeved 400 engine..



    Wim.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Shep's Avatar
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    Another alternative is to remove the bolt and the broken bit and file the broken bit into a decent spacer and then add a couple of washers to build it up between the Engine mount and the engine.If there's enough decent thread left in the block you should be able to get enough purchase(Don't over tighten) to help the other 3 bolts secure the engine.

    I had a block with that thread nearly go so tapped it clean and did the bolt decent hand tight so it wouldn't vibrate etc.Ran fine like that for several years until I changed the engine/block.



    Perhaps a little thread-lock just to aid as well.



    HTH
    I won't miss the Human Race,well maybe,"Fish-and-Chips"

  9. #8
    Senior Member Allan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caveman View Post
    Hi Allen,



    So you drive around with it without problems, I am also intend to ignore it especially because it will be hard to found a tig welder who really knows what he is doing, here in the countryside of Thailand and I keep in mind that I have a downsleeved 400cc with 10 hp less, I think I give it a try because I want to be on the road again soon and maybe one day I found the right welder.



    Thanks Wim.


    Yes, I have driven it that way with no problem.



    My bike is a cx and I think yours is a gl,,if it is a gl you probably do not have the engine hanger that hooks to the top of the rear engine cover. I imagine you will still be ok, but you will want to keep an eye on it until you have driven for a while, just to be sure.
    ...and as the elders of our time choose to remain blind, let us rejoice and let us sing and dance and ring in the new. Hail Atlantis!

    1975 XL-100, 1978 CX500, 1980 CX500, 1981 CX500

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