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Thread: 79 Custom, oil light issue

  1. #21
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    I'm not familiar with your bike but unless the bike uses a relay (combined or otherwise) the OP switch in a normally closed (N/C). If you have a volt meter or a test light simply go from the OP sensor terminal to a ground point anywhere. Try it with ignition on and off, that will tell you if it NO or NC. If you get nothing either way, it the wiring going back somewhere. I don't think you have to worry about pulling it all apart again to see if the switch failed just yet.
    Fingers crossed.
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    Oh but to have a garage and all the tools again.

  2. #22
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    Make sure the connector behind the thermostat hasn't come undone too.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

    The WIKI link for all the good tech stuff. including free FSM's with addendums

  3. #23
    Member Speedster's Avatar
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    Noted thx
    In the Garage
    1980 Honda CX 500 (Also known as Honda CX 500 A)
    1981 Honda CB 750 K
    2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6 R

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  5. #24
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    Nitpicking:

    The oil pressure switch is a switch. It has just the ON / OFF funktion.

    The temp sensor is a sensor. He sends many different Ohm-values to the temp gauge.

  6. #25
    Member Speedster's Avatar
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    OK...so the brake light doesn't work when I pull the front lever. It works with the foot brake though.
    It is not clear if I have a 79 or 80 model.
    But this thing of the brake lights and OP light being connected...seems to be only for the Custom.....
    Also..I don't have that black box/ relay under the seat..
    Could the brake light issue...(for front lever) be related to my OP light...on my bike??
    In the Garage
    1980 Honda CX 500 (Also known as Honda CX 500 A)
    1981 Honda CB 750 K
    2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6 R

  7. #26
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    Remove the 2 wires from the front brake light switch and touch them together with the key switcjhed on. If it lights the brake light the switch is faulty.

    If it doesn't .... keep looking.

    That black box that brings the oil light on if there is a brake globe fault is only on the 79 model year 500C.
    Last edited by CXPHREAK; 05-21-2017 at 03:30 AM.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

    The WIKI link for all the good tech stuff. including free FSM's with addendums

  8. #27
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    The front brake light switch was the only thing I needed to fix for inspection last year. I'm guessing they go wonky fairly easily.
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    Oh but to have a garage and all the tools again.

  9. #28
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    The oil pressure switch is a switch. It has just the ON / OFF funktion.

    The temp sensor is a sensor. He sends many different Ohm-values to the temp gauge.
    Now you got me thinking and that's dangerous.
    I think the OP is both a switch and a sensor. It's not a manual thing, it "senses" pressure and does what it does does automatically but it an on/off manor. The CT is also a sensor in that it also does it automatically but is more like a rheostat, like turning the volume up of your radio.
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    Oh but to have a garage and all the tools again.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowseatmaize View Post
    Now you got me thinking and that's dangerous.
    For me or for You ?

    Quote Originally Posted by cowseatmaize View Post
    I think the OP is both a switch and a sensor. It's not a manual thing, it "senses" pressure and does what it does does automatically but it an on/off manor. The CT is also a sensor in that it also does it automatically but is more like a rheostat, like turning the volume up of your radio.
    The OP-Switch has no "thingy" inside to "feel" the pressure.
    It's pure mechanically
    It's a membrane on the oily side (pressure side) and a brass plate with a spring.
    Pressure on ---> the membran moves the copper/brass plate away from the contact. Idot light goes off.

    Name:  Oedruckschalter_zerlegt.jpg
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    (I killed this poor switchy with the help of my lathe, just for YOU )

    An Rheostat (potentiometer) isn't in the Temp sensor.
    Don't know it exact, I thinks it's a special metall changing its Ohm (resistance) when the temp changes.
    (Thermistor ??)
    Last edited by guelli02; 05-21-2017 at 09:13 AM.

  11. #30
    Member Speedster's Avatar
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    OK..feedback:
    I fixed the front brake light switch. The wire was broken off from the fitting. So that sorted the brake lights from front lever. But that did not fix the OP light.
    I then continued looking.. And found that the Oil Pressure unit / sender itself is faulty...and the globe is def not dead.
    So I took the OP sensor off..and going to buy a new one with same size thread..which shud resolve the whole problem. Hope I get one...and glad the brake lights issue also sorted.

    I'm sure any OP unit of the correct size shud work just fine. Unless it must be a certain bar or measure.!?
    Last edited by Speedster; 05-21-2017 at 09:50 AM.
    In the Garage
    1980 Honda CX 500 (Also known as Honda CX 500 A)
    1981 Honda CB 750 K
    2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6 R

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