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Solution for Front brake "dragging"

3K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  Bob Witte 
#1 · (Edited)
Here I am again folks, your friendly "Joker Mechanic" (as opposed to "Ace").

This time I've screwed up what was okay before in the front brake department. I was attempting to re-install my front fender and in order to do so, I have to remove my wheel and at least one caliper this time it was the rider's left side). I've done this twice before with no more than the usual agony since that is basically what the service manual calls for. Not so for the last couple of days. I had the normal nightmare of attempting to line up the disks in the caliper spaces (i.e. pads spread open enough to let the disks slide in easily -- together). But this time the left tube appeared to have "twisted" about 1/8" off center on the back side. I loosened up the fender mounting bolts a bit along with the add on cross brace and "twisted" the lower left arm back into place enough to slide in the disks.

However, when all was put back together and tightened up, there is a real "binding" on the front disk. So much so that I can barely turn the wheel by hand (when it is off the ground). I rode it up and back a few yards to see if it would right itself (I know, I know, it is the ever hopefulness of the ignorant). Of course, that was to no avail.

I don't think it is the pistons because the pads were easily spread to allow space to slide in the disks. I also relieved any pressure via the brake fluid opening the nipple and letting some juice flow out. So I'm left thinking that perhaps that lower left fork arm is still skewered a bit. If so, what do I do about it??

TIA,

Sir Ignorant (that's me!!):rolleyes:
 
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#2 ·
Could be crap behind the caliper seal making the seal tight on the piston. Cure, service caliper. Old, internally swollen brake lines. Cure, - replace. Or a blocked return hole in the master cylinder. Cure - poke out with 8 amp fuse wire or the wire from a bread bag tie. If cracking the bleed nipple releases the brake the trouble is hydraulic.

Then there's sticky sliding pins. Cure - clean and lube.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Both of these calipers had a complete rebuild 18 months ago and the bike has less than 20 miles on it since then. The M/C is new as are all the lines and pads. Doubt it is anything but possibly the "sticky sliding pins" (BTW, what & where are said pins??).

TIA!
 
#3 ·
Did you check the clearance with a feeler gauge per P. 51 of the Owner's Manual? I have seen this information elsewhere but I can't find it in the FSM. Anyway, if you don't have an Owner's Manual you are lucky - the GL500 is the only one in the Wiki.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Bob:

Nope, didn't look in the OM (which I still have my original of). Did so just now and will attempt a "do over" later this afternoon.

If that doesn't work, I'll come back and whine some more.

Thanks again.
 
#6 ·
Well, like Cousin Vinny, "six times were a charm" and my last re-installation seems to have worked (especially when done carefully and according to the books!!). The front wheel no longer requires Hulk like strength to turn free. Thanks again guys!
 
#7 ·
Have a good ride when ready. I am here in the north end of New port richey. 52 and moon lake. See ya!
 
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#8 ·
Kool beans! Didn't know anyone on the forum was that close. I'm at Hudson & Little Road, and taking my time, maybe 8 minutes away!:D

Sounds like you might know the answer to this one. I did take it out just a bit ago and ran it down Hudson Rd to where the trailer park is on the north side of the road. From a cold start, the bike takes coaxing to get started (even in the great weather we are having today!), but once warmed up idles okay and runs okay under 4000 rpm. But over that the engine labors badly (although both pots seem to be firing). Consequently, I can't get over 55 no matter what.

The gas is high test and fresh, the carbs are newly installed rebuilts from PHOTODOCTOR (Mike M in Tampa) and I haven't touched them. The plugs were fairly new and checked out the last time Mike was here (which was some months ago). Any clues?? TIA.
 
#11 ·
Easy to check, when it is running rough, does pulling the choke out make t run better?
Try running it with the air filter out, if it runs better you may need to replace that.
If so then you have a fuel feed problem, if not then it is possibly spark related.
 
#12 ·
Easy to check, when it is running rough, does pulling the choke out make t run better?
Somewhat.

Try running it with the air filter out, if it runs better you may need to replace that.
No difference there. The filter is "new" (I put in two years ago), but only has 30 miles use since then. Clean as a whistle.

If so then you have a fuel feed problem, if not then it is possibly spark related.
I'm not capable of any fuel system fixes myself (The bandits at the local Honda shop should brace themselves for a "cash cow" coming in for the slaughter!). Will Seafoam help?? Otherwise, how do I check spark related issues? TIA folks,
 
#14 · (Edited)
Ah, a solution using a solution instead of wrenches, my kind of fix for sure!! This is why I love this place! :D

I have a whole can Seafoam available, good weather, and I'm almost done with my 2014 taxes, so I may even get out there today. I'll report back soon with a success story, or because it is seldom that easy, I'll do some further whining......
 
#16 ·
Roger that & thanks Bob. Been itching for a reason to do that! I'll start at sunrise! :angel8:
 
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