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  1. #31
    Senior Member reclinedrelic's Avatar
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    When I cleaned my carbs I inadvertently misrouted the throttle cables. The symptom was a slow return to idle. Read the FSM and changed the cable routing,problem solved.
    Mike

    1981 GL500 (Jacob)
    1982 GL500I (Phil)
    1981 GL500 (Blackie) parts bike
    1983 GL650I (Big Red) parts bike
    198? CX500C (Adam) only a few parts left
    London, Ontario, Canada

  2. #32
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    Try using propane from an unlit propane torch to search for leaks. Its a gas and will move through cracks and gaps easier than liquid.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Tallpaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knute View Post
    Try using propane from an unlit propane torch to search for leaks. Its a gas and will move through cracks and gaps easier than liquid.
    LPG on a motorbike, now there's an idea.................................
    1981 CX500A
    1982 CX500C
    2013 Triumph Tiger Sport 1050



    Being British is about driving a German car to an Irish pub for a Belgian beer, then travelling home, grabbing an Indian curry or a Turkish kebab on the way, to sit on Swedish furniture and watch American shows on a Japanese TV.

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  5. #34
    Junior Member
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    Red face Great info from everybody !

    Quote Originally Posted by Tallpaul View Post
    LPG on a motorbike, now there's an idea.................................
    Ed in Erwin Tennessee 1981 GL500 with 24K on the odometer .....also have a 1995 Kaw. KLR 650 and a 2007 Kaw. KLE650 that run great !

    I did clean the carbs before I had access to this forum and realize I may have screwed up . My research on the web said to set the mixture screws at 3/4 turns out from bottomed . The forum says 3 , 2.5 or 1 in different places ....which is it ? The lean indication from the RPM not returning to idle quickly may have something to do with this ? I will check out the cable routing suggestion too.
    I also ordered a set of non resistor spark plug caps to eliminate any trouble with the caps and will install new resistor plugs with new spark plug wires . Both my ignition coils check at 2.4 ohms on the primary (pin to pin on the 2 pin plug ) but nothing on the secondary ( spark plug lead to ground ). ...is this correct ? I know the primary coils are called 3ohm and the secondary should be 1 ohm ?
    I also see an anomaly with the ignition switch that when selecting the on position sometimes it does not get any response in activation ..... recycling or jiggling will get the lights on . A new ignition switch may be necessary ? .....or , God forbid , disassembly ?

    I'm in the process of pulling the carbs again and do a better cleaning armed with the invaluable info from this forum . Thanks to everyone in advance .

    The gremlins have been busy on this bike but I'm gaining ....I think ?
    ...and I'm a stubborn old man ....I'll keep you all posted on my progress !

  6. #35
    Senior Member
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    Don't fiddle with trying to repair the ignition switch. Just replace it. Cost about $35. Lack of frustration....priceless. Mind you get the proper switch. I had the same issues with mine. Found the plug-n-play replacement from Emgo.

  7. #36
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    If the @r$e is hanging off of the switch it's an easy fix. If internal to the switch a little more difficult.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/CXPHREAK/library/Switchgear%20rebuild?sort=6&page=1

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/inde...itle=Main_Page

  8. #37
    Junior Member
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    ...Sorry it took so long to get back here for the results
    I finally got the engine problems fixed ......by changing carbs , installing new non resistor spark plug caps , installing new Iridium Spark plugs and readjusting the throttle cables per the book . I did replace just the electrical part of my ignition switch so I could avoid getting new keys . It finally runs great ....but ...I also installed a GPS that required a new external power (cigarette lighter power to you old dudes like me ) and a digital voltmeter . You guessed it , the charging system is not working now that I can monitor voltage . I have battery voltage at all RPM's . I installed a new battery first thing after I bought this beast and have only ridden short distances to test things so the voltage issue never came up and I naturally didn't look .So I have been busy troubleshooting my electrical charging system for this 1981 GL500 with TI ignition . Stator tests showed about .5 ohms on all banks with a little over 40 volts AC at 2K RPM on each combo . HURRAY ...Stator good !...The rectifier/regulator shows resistance readings of 570 , 564 , 552....similar on the other diodes the other way . All diodes not shorted for the reverse test.All the bike wiring checked out and all grounds are good . Are these ohms too high for the diodes ?. I have ordered a new regulator and it should be here in a couple days .
    If the charging problem is fixed I will move on to disassembly of the rear suspension where I have some annoying squeaks that need grease . A little oil for the front forks and I'll be ready to ride in the spring !

  9. #38
    Senior Member Peter in Cali's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CXPHREAK View Post
    The voltage output test on the stator are meaningless. If that was all the voltage the ignition had available it wouldn't start.

    Maybe your meter won't read this on DC. Try AC .... but my 2 meters read this on DC.

    What do the plugs look like?
    I know this is out of date and out of order, but I just want to note that I was never able to get the 150V reading on my cheapo voltmeter from the original CDI box (either side) nor from a brand-new Rae-San. My bike is running just fine now despite 1 1/2 volts (according to my meter) - I believe the reading you get is dependent on the meter. Phreak and Murray obviously have meters that work more or less the same way.

    This should really be an oscilloscope test to be anything objective. I would feel like a real jerk saying that except you can buy a pocket-sized scope for well under $100 nowadays.

    P
    Peter

    '79 CX500C, low miles

  10. #39
    Senior Member
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    peter i have enough problems coaching members through using a multimeter and understanding the results

    i would implode trying to get them to use a scope or interpret it and wave forms

    and if you are going to get one

    get a dual trace a little more but
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

    Order The Quick Build Exhaust Pipes


    GET A QUICKSET VALVE TOOL


    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  11. #40
    Senior Member Peter in Cali's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    peter i have enough problems coaching members through using a multimeter and understanding the results

    i would implode trying to get them to use a scope or interpret it and wave forms
    Yeah, you're right. I get that. Too many choices and too much info, and it's too easy to get no reading at all.

    Some meters seem to look for the highest signal and hold it for a bit, presumably to keep us from going nuts when we have lousy contacts (what you have). For AC, some look for high and low, then give you a reading that would be what you'd have if they were connected with a sine wave. Others are true RMS, some are weird hybrids. It makes it hard!
    Peter

    '79 CX500C, low miles

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