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Thread: Electrical/Tail-Brake Light Question

  1. #21
    Senior Member reclinedrelic's Avatar
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    You might be able to change the light bulb socket in your front turn signals. I've done that to use stock GL500 tail lights on the front, and retain the running light function.
    Mike

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  2. #22
    Member dkmulford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidecar Bob View Post
    As for the front signals, you have 2 options: 1) get 3 wire dual filament signals or 2) use separate running lights like I did. There are some really small, really bright LED lights on eBay that will work well.
    Bob,
    I'm rethinking the idea about having separate running lights after spending some time looking for new front turn signals. I was curious if you had any pictures of the ones you got? Where did you install them?
    Thanks!
    D
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  3. #23
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    D, while you are sorting out what you want to do, you might want to check this link (and associated rules) for Alabama lighting laws. (I assume Alabama, as in Huntsville).

    Section 32-5-241 ? Additional permissible lights on vehicles. :: Chapter 5 ? REGULATION OF OPERATION OF MOTOR VEHICLES, ETC., GENERALLY. :: Title 32 ? MOTOR VEHICLES AND TRAFFIC. :: 2006 Alabama Code :: Alabama Code :: US Codes and Statutes :: US Law
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  5. #24
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    I don't know if the ones i have on Eccles (my CX650E based winter machine) will work for you. They are "Eagle eye" LEDs similar to these Car White 1.5W LED Slim Eagle Eye Daytime Running Light DRL Screw 18mm Lamp They are small enough to hide on the bike ant even though they only consume 1.5W they are bright enough to light up the road for in front of me almost as well as the headlight on my first bike did. Unfortunately, I don't have any pics that show how they are mounted; The one on the sidecar is just in a hole in the bodywork and the one on the bike is on a little L bracket hung below the fairing in a little empty space. The one thing I DO NOT like about them is that the supplied wires are very thin and difficult to work with.


    The ones on the GoldWing are a holdover from when it was a 2 wheeler and might give you more ideas. They started out as cheap 35W driving lights from Princess Auto (similar to Harbor Freight) and I originally had them set up like this. When I added the sidecar I had 2 HID headlights so I didn't need the driving lights but I like the look of them so I replaced the halogen bulbs with 1W LED bulb replacements from eBay.
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  6. #25
    Member dkmulford's Avatar
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    I think I may have discovered part of the problem. I first plugged the old tail light in...and the brake light stayed on all the time just like the new light. So then I started messing with the front brake light wire/switch. When I unplugged the front brake wire, the brake light went off. I then pushed on the rear brake pedal and the brake light came on. This told me had an issue with the front brake/front brake switch/front brake wire. While investigating the front brake lever a little more I noticed the little button circled in red in the picture below. With the lights turned on, I pushed the button and the brake light went off (the running light also wasn't displaying but that is probably a separate issue). I have to do some more investigating but I'm guessing this front brake lever/master cylinder is not the original. Also, I need to stare at it a little more but I the little button seems to be opposite of what it should...in other words, I would intuitively think that pulling the front brake lever would push the button in (if it was the correct brake lever) and turn the brake light on. However, as I said, pushing the little button in turns the brake light off. Weird. However, I think I'm getting closer to figuring things out.

    D

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  7. #26
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    The bolt going thru your lever is not the right bolt for the master cylinder The correct bolt has a,shoulder on it the centers the lever Beacuse its not there the lever is back a bit from thr switch and not shutting the brake light switch off by pressing the switch closed
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  8. #27
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    That lever is not the correct one for the master cylinder. The correct one should have a tab that pushes that button when the brake lever is released. That means that when you apply the brake the tab stops pushing the button and the light comes on.
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  9. #28
    Member dkmulford's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. What you see is how I bought the bike. LOL. For now I think I'll just try to get the correct lever and bolt. Later on I'll probably replace the whole shebang. Now I need to figure out which lever and bolt to buy. Then figure out why the running light wasn't on. LOL. Thanks!
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  10. #29
    Member dkmulford's Avatar
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    Question...do you think the master cylinder is stock and only the lever and bolt were replaced?
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  11. #30
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    I don't believe Honda started using master cylinders with integral reservoirs w3ith sight glasses until 1980 but I could be wrong. Murray?

    At any rate, the sight glass is full of little cracks, which means that the centre of it could crumble & fall out at any time. That means you would need to replace that too and by the time you get the sight glass, lever & bolt + a kit to rebuild it you would probably be better off to get a new one
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