Carb flooded, time to clean?
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  1. #1
    Member perezoso's Avatar
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    Carb flooded, time to clean?

    Had fuel leak out of a drain hose last time i rode. Now I noticed the side of the carb wet. Engine cranked and instantly stopped after a few revolutions. Unscrewed the drain screw on the carb... the thing was filled. Is this what happens when one of the needles/valves get stuck open?

    Thanks for reading.

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    83 CX650 Custom

  2. #2
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    Correct. Fuel coming out over-flow tube indicates float/needle problem. Cleaning often fixes, but inspect needle carefully for a groove where it seats, and make sure float has no gas in it (cracked) and is moving freely on pivot pin. New parts for all relatively inexpensive.

  3. #3
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    Hardest part of job for me was getting carbs of/on for cleaning. I removed intake manifold bolts first, loostened all clamps, and moved all back until I could remove intake manifolds. Then there is much more room to move carbs to side for cable removal etc. Be careful as old manifolds can be broken if too much force is applied. Check o-rings on manifolds for damage, new can be obtained at machine supply or ebay/Honda. Recently on here a mosquito was found on the float needle of a carb, it leaked like yours. New floats $14 and needles $7 on ebay. 2 complete carb kits- no fuel pump or air valves or floats- $32 with lots of parts u wont use. Cleaning goes a long way, inspect parts carefully. Others may have better methods for carb removal, but it is a tight fitting assembly.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member nolimitz's Avatar
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    Why but carb kit and not use it all?
    83 GLI650 carport find

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    Mike Nixon's carb book
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  6. #5
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    I guess I've always been hesitant to separate carbs when not doing something like changing both air valves. The pipe o=rings are included in kit. I have also had kits that came with stuff that seemed to go on another model of carb. The kits pictured had all jets, slide needles, mixture screws and packing, bowl gaskets and lots of o-rings, pic may not be of exactly what they send= ebay.

  7. #6
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    KItslso had 2 kinds of float needles shown, one with lifting loop. The books u show with links are probably of great help for a successful rebuild.

  8. #7
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    Cheap ebay kits instead of Randdakk's.

  9. #8
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    perezo

    you have a cx650 custom it is the treat of all treats to pull the carbs off of and rebuild

    most people here have 500 and they are a cake walk compared to the cx650 carbs

    pm me if you want a few pointers and short cuts to get them off

    and use common sense including if you need a specific answer make sure people know you have a 650

    and that the people you are getting the answers from have one or know them
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

    Order The Quick Build Exhaust Pipes


    GET A QUICKSET VALVE TOOL


    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  10. #9
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    obo 515

    doing the carbs and not inspecting and changing the aircut valve means you wasted your time

    and you dont have to completly split them to do and clean the acvs
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

    Order The Quick Build Exhaust Pipes


    GET A QUICKSET VALVE TOOL


    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

    email me at murray at murrayscarbs.com

  11. #10
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by obo515 View Post
    2 complete carb kits- no fuel pump or air valves or floats- $32 with lots of parts u wont use.
    1) Fuel pump? These bikes don't have fuel pumps so why would the carb kit include it?
    2) If the kit doesn't include the air cut valves it isn't complete. Randakk's kits do.
    3) I also have to ask why, if you have gone to the trouble of removing the carbs to rebuild them you wouldn't rebuild them as fully as possible? A few people here have had transfer tube o-rings fail due to age and I wouldn't want that to happen when I was away from home.....
    4) You are still posting twice almost every time.....

    Perezoso: Listen to Murray.

    BTW: You don't need to unscrew the drain screw far enough for the fuel to come out around it. If you open it one turn the fuel should start coming out if the drain scres. And yes, the float bowls should be pretty close to full most of the time. Before you get into a big job put a container under the drain hose that the fuel is coming out of, turn the petcock on and give the side of the float bowl a few sharp taps with the handle of a screwdriver. That can often dislodge something that is stuck in the float valve...
    Last edited by Sidecar Bob; 03-22-2017 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Remembered more after clicking Post
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