Instructional - How to repair a thread with an insert
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  1. #1
    Sniperdoc's Avatar
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    After all the contributions of others that I have enjoyed here, I thought I would offer one. Please chime in if this helps you.



    The problem for me was that I discovered a cross threaded bolt in my "new" bike. The gear flange on the wheel needed to be repaired. Below Is what I did to fix it. It cost me $8.00 including shipping from McMaster Carr plus the drill and tap, which I borrowed.







    Here is the basic tool list. Just above the adjustable wrench is a special installation tool. I actually used a pin punch instead just to demonstrate that you do not need this expensive tool. You will also need some cutting / tapping fluid, and possibly a hole center.







    Here is a closeup of the thread repair insert. Jergens, I believe is the manufacturer of these and they are available in thin, standard (pictured), and heavy wall. You can get black phosphate finish steel or stainless steel. The product spec on the McMaster Carr website will tell you what exterior hole drill and tap you will need. I used a M10 x 1.25 internal and a M14 - 1.5mm external with a 12.8MM drill which I substituted a 1/2" drill bit for since they are so close. 12.8mm = .5038".







    I used a drill press, but you probably do not have to for all situations. I used it because I have it. So I used the hole center that I made on a lathe to center the hole up with the chuck. You can do this with the drill bit and will usually be just fine since there is already a starter hole there.







    You will want to brush on a little cutting / tapping fluid on the drill bit and into the hole.











    For the actual tapping operation I use a spring loaded center that I made on the lathe a while back to keep the tap line up correctly. I did not have a tap wrench big enough for this tap, so I just used an adjustable wrench. I usually turn the tap 1 - 1 1/2 turns then back up about a half turn or so until I feel the chip break off the tap and then resume cutting in the forward direction. In a deep steel hole, you will likely want to back the tap all the way out a few times to put some more cutting / tapping oil.







    1981 CX500 Custom

  2. #2
    Sniperdoc's Avatar
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    In my particular situation, the bolt has a larger diameter than the thread at the bolt head end, thus I cannot install the insert on the head side because the bolt will not screw all the way in. I therefore installed the insert from the opposite side. The hole on the brake side of the wheel is on a protrusion with an angle on one side so I had to countersink the hole at the surface. Regardless of that, the insert must be screwed in so that the threaded insert is below flush with the surface, especially if you are installing on the bolt head side. If not, the bolt head or whatever the bolt is holding down will not sit flush on the mating surfaces, but will have interference contact with the threaded insert.







    You don't need a fancy tool to install these. A pin punch and a hammer is all you need. Try to hold it straight.







    Here I have driven one locking pin in, and another about halfway.









    Strong as new!









    1981 CX500 Custom

  3. #3
    Senior Member DanCX500's Avatar
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    Nicely done! Great pics! Would it be okay if I linked this thread to the Wiki?
    Dan :happy3:

    :blob6:My link to the cam seal delete plug
    '81 CX500c 41,000+ miles.
    CXGL WIKI<------ Check here for help!
    :blob10:
    Quote Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
    Always check the stupid stuff before panicking. This applies to everything in life.

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  5. #4
    Sniperdoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanCX500 View Post
    Nicely done! Great pics! Would it be okay if I linked this thread to the Wiki?




    That would be an honor!
    1981 CX500 Custom

  6. #5
    Senior Member DanCX500's Avatar
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    Done..... http://cxgl.wikispaces.com/FAQ Look towards the bottom of the page.....in the section "With links only'.



    Thanks!
    Dan :happy3:

    :blob6:My link to the cam seal delete plug
    '81 CX500c 41,000+ miles.
    CXGL WIKI<------ Check here for help!
    :blob10:
    Quote Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
    Always check the stupid stuff before panicking. This applies to everything in life.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Reg in Bristol's Avatar
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    Good stuff !!

    Thanks for that

  8. #7
    Triple 0 - Licensed to Kibitz fibonacci's Avatar
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    Hope I never need it, but very well done. Clearly explained and 100k words worth of pics.



    Fib
    Wiki link

    '83 GL650 ("Beatrix) Kiddo"

    Who is John Galt?

    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"

    "Don't worry about it, I'll worry about it - I'm gonna be up anyway" Joe Walsh


  9. #8
    Sniperdoc's Avatar
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    Thank you for all the positive feedback. I was concerned that the pictures would take up too much bandwidth. There is always a trade off of too many pictures vs. not enough to give someone the confidence to do the job.



    Cheers,



    Brian
    1981 CX500 Custom

  10. #9
    Super Moderator ramprat06's Avatar
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    Don't worry about pictures that are stored on an off-site web server. The issues were concerning data stored on THIS website. And I agree, nicely done.



    p.s. One thing I've noticed in the past is sometimes a person will modify their PhotoBucket albums, and remove or edit stuff, then in the future when someone looks for, say the Wiki, the link no longer works. So, for archived items, consider making sure they are truly archived by the author, and remain linked as originally.



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