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Thread: Bike quit...in midst of troubleshooting

  1. #11
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    A dirty Start button could make the headlight or starter not work but not the instrument lights, horn, tail light, turn signals &c.

    It looks like its time to start doing some serious testing with your voltmeter. Start by connecting it between the battery + and any green wire except the one that connects to the frame. If you have full voltage there the ground connection is good. If not there is probably a break in the wire.
    Next measure between any green wire and the red wire at the main fuse. If it has power leave the meter connected to the green and measure at the red wire at the keyswitch (should be live all the time). If that is OK go to the black at the keyswitch (should be live when the key is on).
    purplecx500, JakeSH and Vinson57 like this.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
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  2. #12
    Senior Member blivy's Avatar
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    So...tried turning the handlebars and still nothing.
    I don't think it's the starter switch. The reason for this is because when I turn the key to the on position, I don't get anything. Normally I'd get my indicator lights (and I think even blinkers) before I'd hit the start button.

    My guess is that there is something broken in the loom. Given that there are no break on the front end (in the headlight bucket) or the back end under the seat, I'm afraid it might be up in dem guts.

    hate to do it, but sounds like it's time to get the exacto knife out to cut away the electrical tape spine.

    Any last thoughts before I commence surgery?

    Thanks,
    blivy
    1979 CX500 Custom, Athens, Georgia
    Rebuilt Left Cylinder Head (2011)
    Rebuilt Starter (2011); Re-enameled tank (2011); Rebuilt Carbs (Larry method) (2012);
    Triple by-pass performed (2012);
    Upgrade to G8 stator and Ignitech (2012);
    Rebuilt oil pump and new oil chain (2012);
    Stripped and painted frame and wheels(can job) (2012);
    Re-greased/lubed rear drive and rear drive splines (2012);
    8 cell lithium Ballistic battery (2014); Upgrade to dual pot brakes with SS line (2014);
    New Shinko 230 tires (2014)
    New EBC clutch springs (2015); Rebuilt clutch cable assembly on clutch cover case (2015);
    New throttle, clutch, and choke cables (2015)

  3. #13
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    See my post above.
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

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  5. #14
    Senior Member purplecx500's Avatar
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    Test first.

    as Bob says if there's a break/open u

    should find the wire/circuit its on

    avoid openin the loom un-

    necessarily.

    Unless you enjoy that sort of thing.
    SideCar Bob's settings. http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-...ould-make.html
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    StatorTest;;
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    'Eager" 1979 CX500C Maroon.
    Named for the way it runs/sounds @ 65 +

  6. #15
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    Check for power at the red wire at the back of the ignition switch. This is power in and should be there full time. If you don't have power here and you are sure of your main fuse you likely have a broken wire in the looms flex zone as mentioned above.

    If you do have power here turn the key on and check for power coming back out of the switch on the solid black wire next to the red one. The black is switched power.

    If still no go, rule out a fault in the ignition switch itself by shunting red directly to solid black. If it lights up now the switch is faulty.
    Vinson57 likes this.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

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  7. #16
    Senior Member blivy's Avatar
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    Thanks y'all.
    I'lll check these out tomorrow and report back after work.
    much appreciate the help,
    blivy

    Also, thanks bob...I must have been typing my last reply when you were sending yours.
    1979 CX500 Custom, Athens, Georgia
    Rebuilt Left Cylinder Head (2011)
    Rebuilt Starter (2011); Re-enameled tank (2011); Rebuilt Carbs (Larry method) (2012);
    Triple by-pass performed (2012);
    Upgrade to G8 stator and Ignitech (2012);
    Rebuilt oil pump and new oil chain (2012);
    Stripped and painted frame and wheels(can job) (2012);
    Re-greased/lubed rear drive and rear drive splines (2012);
    8 cell lithium Ballistic battery (2014); Upgrade to dual pot brakes with SS line (2014);
    New Shinko 230 tires (2014)
    New EBC clutch springs (2015); Rebuilt clutch cable assembly on clutch cover case (2015);
    New throttle, clutch, and choke cables (2015)

  8. #17
    Senior Member blivy's Avatar
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    Update: After work and before it got dark I was able to spend a few minutes troubleshooting with all the helpful suggestions everyone gave yesterday. Per Bob's recommendation I checked my ground wires first. Positive lead of my multimeter on the battery positive terminal and negative lead of my multimeter at various green grounding wires. Everything checked out and I was showing 14.6-15 V throughout.

    Next I checked the red wire that comes from the starter solenoid and runs to the main fuse. It showed full power there too.

    Moved from there to the red wire in the six pin connector that feeds into the ignition. There I was only showing 6-7 volts. Though for a brief second I thought I saw 12 V flash on the multimeter. Might have been because I was having a hard time really getting a good connection with my multimeter lead, but I'm pretty confident that I was making contact.
    In any case, when I turned the key to the on position, the voltage on the red wire would drop to zero.
    Tried this several times to verify this.


    Next I tried reading voltage on the black wire. With the key in the off position, there was no power to the black wire.
    When I turned the key to the on position there was still no power.
    I then took a wire and stuck it in the back of the six pin connector to bridge the red and black wires. Nothing lit up on my instrument cluster (I was assuming that this verifies that the problem is not in my ignition/key switch).


    To to sum it up. I have a good battery. I have a good ground throughout.
    I'm getting around 7 volts to the red wire on the back of the ignition switch, but zero volts to the black wire on the same switch with key in the on or off position. Also, bridging the red and black wires didn't cause anything to happen so I'm assuming the ignition is not the problem (good because it's brand new!)


    I remain stumped. Any ideas for further tracking this down?
    Thanks again for all the help,
    Blivy
    1979 CX500 Custom, Athens, Georgia
    Rebuilt Left Cylinder Head (2011)
    Rebuilt Starter (2011); Re-enameled tank (2011); Rebuilt Carbs (Larry method) (2012);
    Triple by-pass performed (2012);
    Upgrade to G8 stator and Ignitech (2012);
    Rebuilt oil pump and new oil chain (2012);
    Stripped and painted frame and wheels(can job) (2012);
    Re-greased/lubed rear drive and rear drive splines (2012);
    8 cell lithium Ballistic battery (2014); Upgrade to dual pot brakes with SS line (2014);
    New Shinko 230 tires (2014)
    New EBC clutch springs (2015); Rebuilt clutch cable assembly on clutch cover case (2015);
    New throttle, clutch, and choke cables (2015)

  9. #18
    Senior Member dfoustou's Avatar
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    Last Fall the starter switch was contaminated with cable lubricant and it kept burning the main fuse. Two days ago my main fuse died but upon visual inspection looked great.
    Dionysis

    79 CX500 C
    07 RSV 1000R
    08 WR250R

    IBA#58777

  10. #19
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    If there is voltage on the red wire after the main fuse it is probably OK.

    Blivy: Are you checking for voltage relative to the frame or to the green wire? It is possible for moisture to get inside the wire next to the ring lug and corrode it out but it still looks pretty close to normal.....
    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
    Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/Veloural)
    Eccles: The Never Ending Build
    my blog at CURD

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  11. #20
    Senior Member
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    I think you've found the problem.

    "I checked the red wire that comes from the starter solenoid and runs to the main fuse. It showed full power there"

    "red wire in the six pin connector that feeds into the ignition. There I was only showing 6-7 volts."

    "when I turned the key to the on position, the voltage on the red wire would drop to zero."

    You have a high resistance connection from the solenoid to the ignition switch. With the ignition switch off (minimal current flow), the wire drops half your voltage. When you turn the ignition switch on and significant current tries to flow, all the voltage is dropped cross the high resistance.

    Clean all the contacts associated with this wire. Check the wiring diagram to see if there are any other connectors between these two points. If there are then (a) clean them too and (b) measure voltage at these points to determine which wire segment has the fault. It could be a broken wire, but more than 90% of connectivity problems are with connectors. Suspect them before cutting into the loom.
    Sidecar Bob likes this.
    '82 GL500

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