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Thread: Paddlefoot's Triple Bypass topic

  1. #1
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    Paddlefoot's Triple Bypass topic

    Hey guys.. i'm getting ready to do a triple bypass and Ignitech swap as early as this weekend. Right now the motor is out and i'm waiting for some parts to arrive.. I don't want to start the job until I have all of the parts (as per the MotoFaction parts list) in hand. I have a few questions, tho:

    1.) First of all, I don't see many people using this stator:

    Electrosport Industries Stator ESG083 86-4104 344079 | eBay

    It's the Electrosport Industries ESG083 Stator. I probably should have asked before I pulled the trigger.. but.. this will work with as long as I'm planning to switch to an ignitech, right?

    2.) I bought this CX500 engine gasket set:

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    I don't know if those are all of the O-rings that I need. There are no part numbers, just the pic, so i guess I gotta match them up by eye as I go. Obviously, It's missing the water pump o-ring and the oil seals (camshaft, shift shaft, and mech seals). Am I missing anything else? And does that look like the manual tensioner bolt o-ring (913912-415-000) kindve down there in the lower right side of the o-ring pile?

    3.) I wasn't planning on it.. but since this gasket set has new head gaskets, should I replace those while I'm at it? What about replacing the piston rings?

    4.) I believe the front cover would have to come off ONLY if I want to change the Clutch springs.. Should I do that? And is there anything else up there that I might want to replace?

    I've enjoyed working on my bike over the years but after this rebuild, I don't want to do anything but change the fluids, brakes, and tires for a long long time. Any answers to these questions along with any pointers, tips, suggestions, links, etc.. will be much appreciated. I'm going to keep coming back to this thread as my project progresses.

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    ----
    1980 CX500D

  2. #2
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    That stator will work if going aftermarket ignition. I'll leave it to those who have used it to comment on its quality.

    Leave the head gaskets alone unless you have a particular reason to remove the heads. Most aftermarket head gaskets included in kits are near rubbish requiring a ridiculous retorque regime if they're not going to start weeping coolant. If you need to lift the heads either use genuine Honda or those available from Joe Hovel. Reringing is unlikely to be necessary with one of these either. Bore and ring wear on these is not really an issue. One of the CXs virtues {500 anyway}

    A 127 x 3 mm O ring will work for the coolant pump cover. This is what I use. The O ring doesn't need to be specially shaped. A round O ring works just as well and will be held within the covers locating groove.

    I would still remove the front cover to clean out the bottom of the motor {not really accessible from the back} and to check the oilpump chain and clean the pickup screen.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

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    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

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  3. #3
    JC
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    +1 to what Phreak said... opening the front is a good idea imho as it's not like it's a lot of effort when the motor is already out of the frame and you have the right gasket to put it back.

    If you want some how-tos on the process, see:

    https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/...0-gl500-gl650/

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  5. #4
    Senior Member nolimitz's Avatar
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    Also with the front open you can lock the cam in place while removing the flywheel. I will second cleaning oil pump screen.
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  6. #5
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    "Also with the front open you can lock the cam in place while removing the flywheel. I will second cleaning oil pump screen."

    if you can lock the cam with the transmission cover off on your bike you have big problems
    GET AN OIL FILTER ADAPTER

    Order The Quick Build Exhaust Pipes


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    Way to many bikes to maintain this list LOL !!

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  7. #6
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    I lock the crank at the primary to lock the cam for sprocket removal.

    I lock the sprocket for sprocket boss removal.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

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  8. #7
    Senior Member nolimitz's Avatar
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    Sorry its early, Should have said the primary gear using a gear holder.

    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    "Also with the front open you can lock the cam in place while removing the flywheel. I will second cleaning oil pump screen."

    if you can lock the cam with the transmission cover off on your bike you have big problems
    83 GLI650 carport find

    1982 GL500i Daily rider
    1982 GL500 Father/Son winter project. The green hornet! Alive and well!

    Mike Nixon's carb book
    Larry Cargill's carb book
    Factory service Manual

  9. #8
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    Cool, all good advice. I'll crack the front open, too.. hopefully to find an oil chain in good condition and no metal in the screen.
    ----
    1980 CX500D

  10. #9
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    Okay guys.. replaced the chain and guides. I'm putting the flywheel back on and i've hit a snag.

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    so.. the large starter gear that sits behind the starter clutch can slide forward and backward on the crankshaft. That can't be right. I tightened the flywheel back on to about 60ftlbs torque. It seems like the flywheel needs to go in further but I can't see how that's possible. So it's left a gap for that sprocket to slide about a quarter of an inch. When it's snug against the flywheel, the two starter gears are barely engaged and when it's all the way back, there is nothing keeping it from sliding forward again. Any idea where I may have went wrong?

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    Also, this large spring and the machined part behind it are kinda wiggly. It's not really sitting flush and if i grab it with my thumb and finger, there is a fair amount of play. It almost feels like it Is that normal?
    ----
    1980 CX500D

  11. #10
    OCR
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    That wobble in the shifer linkage will go away when the rear cover is in place.

    Did you keep track of all the shim washers?
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