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Thread: Crankcase preasure and oil leaks.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidecar Bob View Post
    IDo not run the engine until the silicone has cured overnight
    it doesn't cure by daylight or during the day ?

  2. #32
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    It needs about 8-10 hours so leaving it overnight is a good way to make sure.
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  3. #33
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    I know it's against your advice but I used Seal-All®. I've had great success under almost all conditions with gas, oil and water pressure up to 60PSI. I'm not sure if I got far enough past the radiator and fairing mount but I'm hopeful.
    I'll make sure to say what I've done if I resell it but the stuff seals great and can still be cracked loose if the case needs to be cracked open. it works for pretty high temps also but not UV rays so I'll have to be careful which way I park until I coat it with something.
    I also checked the crankcase breather hose, there might be a dry leaf in there from the sound but nothing to block it.
    I'll leave it curing for a few more painful hours, the weather is great right now!!!
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    I would have no time to ride if I had to do all the routine maintenance and cosmetics suggested, I chose riding (within my reasoning).

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  5. #34
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    OK, maybe not the best choice. The leak seams to have stopped where I thought it was coming from or maybe it's just flowing in a new direction. What's an average oil temperature after 1 hour average cruise and how hot does the outside aluminum case get? I do know this stuff if fairly low temp.
    I got overwhelmed at the Permatex® isle with 2 rows of ten types. They all seamed to say "gasket maker" and I had no clue what to get, I have a big problem trying to make decisions. I like blue, red and black as color schemes in combination but but I guess blue if I had to pick a favorite alone. They had one that might have been grey and cures in 20 minutes too.

    Thanks, Eric
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    I would have no time to ride if I had to do all the routine maintenance and cosmetics suggested, I chose riding (within my reasoning).

  6. #35
    Super Moderator Sidecar Bob's Avatar
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    Get the black silicone It is handy stuff to have. It will withstand any temp on the bike except the exhaust. When you are done using it clean any semi-dried stuff from around the opening and put a little piece cut from a plastic bag over the opening before you screw the cap back on and it will keep better for the next time you need it.

    Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr)
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  7. #36
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    Get the one Bob shows. It's the one I use on the rare occasions I use silicon. It is an adhesive silicon and also suitable for Shepping. Bostik make a similar, usable product if you can't get that one.

    Pure silicon has NO adhesive qualitys ... so don't use silastic. It may look the same but doesn't stick. Silicon products vary wildly in adhesive value from none to excrement on a blanket depending on additives.
    Last edited by CXPHREAK; 05-23-2017 at 07:40 PM.
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  8. #37
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    That's the stuff I had in one of my toolboxes but long dried up. I don't remember it having a temp rating but I saw red at the store for up to 500°F but don't recall it saying adhesive and etc..

    Yup, I got issues and I don't deny them.
    AKA Eric
    1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
    I would have no time to ride if I had to do all the routine maintenance and cosmetics suggested, I chose riding (within my reasoning).

  9. #38
    Super Moderator CXPHREAK's Avatar
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    All silicon has a very high temp capability. I use it to fit exhausts.
    Rebuilding Handlebar Switches

    Rider 81 500C, Thingy Born a 78Z. Ozdeluxe born an 80 shadow.

    GET A MULTIMETER RTFM I am a CX500. If you maintain me I will run forever.

    http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

    The WIKI link for all the good tech stuff. including free FSM's with addendums

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