Tinned wire make a difference?
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  1. #1
    Senior Member Ranger's Avatar
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    Hi Everyone,



    I'm putting on some marker lights and an integrated rear brake light that's mounted

    on my rear trunk extender on my GL500I and would like some opinions from members on

    whether I'd be better served using marine tinned wire or using regular copper wire or

    does it matter? Planning on using 18awg primary wire for the wiring.

    Any thoughts?



    Thanks,

    Ranger
    1981 Honda GL500I
    1982 Honda GL500I


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  2. #2
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    Based on my humble experiance. Tinning stranded wire is a good practice. The most important keys to success are to use the proper flux and no acid core solder.



    Tinning helps reduce corrosion on the Cu and gives a more solid crimp connection.



    It only takes a few seconds to tin. Repairing/finding a bad connection is very time consuming. I see this as a pay me now or pay me more later type of situation.

  3. #3
    Senior Member roflcopter's Avatar
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    I agree with knute as teh standard of practice is to tin stranded wire, this also prevents having to apply too much heat while attempting to solder anything. But to be honest, I'm not certain of the properties of pre-tinned wire, ie... if there is more resistance or what. I'd imagine you'd be find going either route. The tinned wire is probably just easier to solder out of the box.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Ranger's Avatar
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    Thanks for the answers,

    I was kind of leaning toward the marine tinned only because of the corrosion factor.

    I used it for my boat so I figured it would be good to use on the bike. The thing

    I was wondering was the same thing as roflcopter as to the properties and resistance.

    The tinned marine wire is a little more expensive than standard copper but as Knute

    put it pay now or pay more later.

    What is the best solder for this type of application....soldering wires to male/female spade connectors.

    Tin lead solder w/rosin core

    or

    silvaloy
    1981 Honda GL500I
    1982 Honda GL500I


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    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing" -
    Edmund Burke



  6. #5
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    FWIW, I wouldn't go the extra expense of marine wire. The basic automotive stranded copper tinned with lead solder with rosin core and use a flux without acid.



    Be done.



    Frankly, I seriously doubt that any resistance increase would be significant. Prolly in the micro-ohm range.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Blue Fox's Avatar
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    The rosin core is my choice for electrical work as it doesn't corrode like a acid flux will. I'm not familiar with silvaloy, but generally the silver solders require about 900 degrees to flow. The insulation on the wire may be compromised at that temp.
    1983 GL650I, 1980 CX500, 1974 CB350F, 1973 CT90

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  8. #7
    Senior Member roflcopter's Avatar
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    I've only used silver solder for 'high tech' stuff (circuit board repair that already had silver). It does require more heat and is extremely frustrating. I'd stick with 60/40 lead free rosin core and some rosin flux.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Shep's Avatar
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    I've been using standard multicore solder to tin the ends of auto wires for over 30 years.I then anti corrosion treat connections and block connectors with ACF50,



    http://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/ACF50.html



    Still works
    I won't miss the Human Race,well maybe,"Fish-and-Chips"

  10. #9
    Senior Member Ranger's Avatar
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    Great information thanks, just curious if anyone has ever used this stuff?

    conductive glue
    1981 Honda GL500I
    1982 Honda GL500I


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    Semper Ride



    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing" -
    Edmund Burke



  11. #10
    Super Moderator DaveF's Avatar
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    I've used similar stuff in the past, but no conductive glue can even come close to the quality and reliability of a good soldered connection.



    Do your bike and yourself a favor and avoid it.
    1982 GL500I, 1983 GL650, 1983 GL650I

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