[prairie]

The stock bar had way to much pullback for me to be comfortable, a free one from a 80 CX500 was some better but not great and was rusty. Now I am trying a dirtbike bar, clears the tank but the clutch lever hits the fairing at right lock and it's a bit wider than I want. Bobbing the lever would fix that however this bar is a bit "straighter" than I'm comfortable with, the others rotated my wrists too far the other way. Why is it so hard to find a bar that will give me a UJM position? The stock one reminded me of a garden rototiller and made riding on my gravel road a fright. Not trying to make this thing into a pseudo-sportbike, just need to feel in control instead of along for the ride.
Recommendations welcome..............

I'm also planing a set of foot peg mounts that move those back bout 3 inches.

[crow]

Have you tried Norman Hyde "M" bars? I put them on my Bonneville, as I hated the look of the US spec pullback/ramshorn or whatever they call them.

Now, on my CX500 frankencafe, I used a set of honda SL 125 bars from the 71-73 models..They cleared the deluxe tank I used,and have a bar you can shorten some, and perfect pullback..cheap on e-bay Sl125 site.
John (crow)

[prairie]

Thanks for the tip, will give them a good hard look.

[Blindstitch]

There is also the option of getting bars that you think will work then cutting them where they go vertical. Then insert a pipe so you can turn/rotate the angle of the handlebars and then have it rewelded in the better position. Shouldn't have to be like this but it does work as a last resort to just a simple bolt on.

[Randall-in-Mpls]

I've heard that contemporary Goldwings that had flatter bars. They used the same fairing, so there shouldn't be any interference. I can't verify this personally, but it's an avenue to explore.


R

[prairie]

Well that project is over for a while.
Fly brand off road bar($23), as in one with the little brace bar is mounted up and looking more promising than before, did remove the roll-pad. This one has 4 inches of rise and much less would have you dragging you knuckles on the storage box lids, that Hondaline faring complicates things a bit. Had to cut the flanges off the new grips but thats okay, just sanded down the rough spots where my hands will rub on the switchgear. Used safety wire to snug up the NEP throttle clamp, no flop and less drag. Gonna look into fitting one of those dog-leg clutch levers as that should fix my clearance problems.

Will buy a M bar when funds allow for either the CX or a CB350G project bike.

Thanks to all who posted, at this point I don't believe this is the best bar, even for me but a big improvement all the same. Now to mocking up those foot peg mounts!

[romzrx]

try the ZRX bars they are low rise and pull back few inches similar to Daytona bars.

[prairie]

Well I got ahead of myself, needed to shorten some cables, clutch by 6 1/2 inches, wish I had one of those ends that are curved at the top. Anyway cleaned cable and housing then lubed with high grade bicycle grease, cable moves easier than a new one. Made the replacement end slug out of O2 tool steel rod I have around and brazed it to the cable, reused ferrule and plastic that goes around slug.

Gonna hold off on the throttle cables till the next rainy spell.