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Phreaks thingy.

138K views 1K replies 57 participants last post by  Randall-in-Mpls 
#1 ·
Thought it was about time I started a build thread on this one. I have had a build thread on it on the Oz site for the past few years. As you can tell from that last statement it has been slow going. I spread my time that I can get in the shed between several bikes, both projects and runners and can't always get out there as often as I'd like.

But this is where I'm at with this one now.

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I've made the airboxless sidecover mounts and this is the battery box that also mounts the starter solenoid, reg/rec, labrynth breather and a couple of other bits. I've made allowance for a full size AGM battery but any battery can be fitted with a change of liner.
 
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#2 ·
The ignition box has also been made so it can hold any ignition unit by changing liners. I have a prototype hybrid Raesan ignition that I will be using. The bike will have some redundancy for reliabilities sake as the ignition I will be using can be switched between hall and stock pulsers by moving a jumper. I ran this configuration on the test bike and it worked fine either way.

The ignition box will have a clear acrylic cover so the setup/diagnostic LEDs can be seen by just lifting the seat.

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This has since been welded in.
 
#3 · (Edited)
These are the CB750/900 front brakes the bike will be running. Discs purchased locally on gumtree, rebuilt calipers bought from forum member Flyin Elvis. Tire Alloy wheel Wheel Automotive tire Spoke
Drilling by Ralph {Hamilton}

Note that this is a dry build. The bike was a complete dunger and I would guess a non runner for many years. A head had also been robbed from the motor but the motor has an open circuit 5/9 so I'm guessing that's why it was taken off the road. The motor rotates smoothly and passes the crude rod bearing test. It will be coming apart soon.

When the frame mods and seat are finished it will then be pulled down for the real build to start. Seat will likely be in fibreglass.

Unfortunately my computer crashed a while back and I've lost many photos including the fuel tank mods. The bike is a 78 fitted with a 500C tank but the tank has been moved back and lowered as much as possible. Instead of the front of the tank being over the top of the rad shroud it is now behind the rad {no shroud on this one} and lower than the top of the rad. This IMHO gives the bike a good line. The bike has full bar clearance both sides with no need to alter the lock to lock. The bars {and my thumbs} don't touch the tank on either lock. Rear hump is the rear part of a rusty 500C tank ..... just to be different.
 
#4 ·
This is where I finished up with the rear of the frame. It still requires the front gusset added to the rear spreader. This will also incorporate the rear mountings for the seat. Auto part Automotive wheel system Wheel Vehicle
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I'll try to hunt up some more pics. I can pinch them from the Oz site build thread. :)
 
#8 ·
I've pulled these pics of the fuel tank mods and placement from my other thread here.

Basically, I have fitted a custom tank to a standard frame but rather than using the front mounting points and extending the tanks rear mounting flange to reach that of the frame {which won't fit anyway, more on this later} I have removed the front mounts from the frame entirely fitting the new ones in a position that would allow me to use the factory rear mount as intended.

This is where the rear of the tank had to be put on a sandbag and selectively battered until it would fit. :) It has since been pressure tested OK. It developed no rattlies after the process so must be pretty rust free. The tank is also as low as I can get it and the lower front is behind the top tank of the radiator. It is so low I have a small rebate ground into the weld seam to clear the upper radiator hos and clears the valve covers by mm.

After mounting the tank I notice you could see straight under it from the front since it was now sitting 3 or 4 inches back from the fusebox instead of nearly up against it as on a stock 500C. So I cut, beat and welded in a filler panel for the front of the tank creating a slightly different look. Vehicle Car Fender Auto part
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#9 ·
The bars shown are those I'll be using and this is the full lock clearance I get with the setback tank. They'll of course, need refinishing. I have much put away for this bike. ;)

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The tank is shown here under etch primer. It has since been through the rest of the prep process and is a final 600 rubdown away from paint ready.
 
#11 ·
No. the bike is being built to junkyard formula for the most part. Those bars were on the bike when I got it I've just flipped them over. I did try a few other similar sets the same way but none worked as well.

You need this type of bend {obviously} for this to work but you are after the lowest rise for the least drop when flipped .... unless you are an orangutan as the reach starts to get a bit far.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I need to get some better pictures of the tail unit. This is made from the rear of another 500C tank and part of a rear guard from a CM250.

The rear hump is held on at the front by 2 6 mm bolts through the spreader and a third at the back that also forms part of the mount for the modified fender liner. The liner had to have its front lengthened {twice. I cut it twice and it was still too short ;)} This had to be cut off before the rear mount that rises to the original seat mount as I didn't need that protrusion in the way. Half of the boss for the CDI plugs was in the way and had to be cut out and the resultant hole filled. Ditto the guide for the tail light wiring on the left side.

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#17 ·
I put the back end of this back together yesterday so there'd be less bits floating around the shed while I go through the motor, which was then pulled out. ;) I took a couple of pics of where the rear is at at present.

I knew the motor was dirty but it took me all afternoon today to get it clean enough for the teardown, which will be next weekend unless I get a chance to get to it sooner.

This motor, though it had been robbed of a head appears to have expired from a blown stator. The 5/9 is out of spec with low resistance and the 8/9 is open circuit. That's OK, I have a G8 stator for it along with Raesan hall effects. It will be running both hall and stock pulsers. {switchable from one to the other.} I have the usual quad bypass parts for it along with rings and a selection of engine bearings {thanks VC3}. Also complete seals, O rings and gaskets and an oilpump chain.

I have a NOS 'A' rocker and 2 Bs. I know where there is another A and will buy this if it is still available when I scrape the funds together. I have new rocker pins. I have a new camshaft, front support and tach worm but need to find out if this is 415 or MA1. If MA1 it goes into this motor. If 415 it goes into the Ozdeluxe motor.

I'm hoping the basic motor is as good as it seems to be.

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#19 ·
Nice to see your stuff, Mark! I assume you are married...........
 
#20 · (Edited)
I couldn't resist anymore so I've just been out and put the motor on the engine bench. Then the engine hanger fell off followed by the front cover.

I can't see anything much I don't like in the way of sparklies or anything other than the expected trashed oilpump chain {I don't think the front cover has been off before but the quality silicon job tells me the back has} and evidence of many late or missed oil changes. This thing is as filthy inside as it was on the outside. :)

Will finish ripping it to bits tomorrow.

Oh, and Ramp, Mrs. Phreak and I have been together for 35 years. ;)

Have ordered the last 'A' rocker I needed for this one and it's just been posted from the US. I won't mention that it's cost me nearly as much as the other 3 rockers did ... but at least I have a full set for this bike now.
 
#21 ·
Ripped this down to a bare block today and am fairly pleased. While nothing has been more than casually inspected yet everything looks much better than I could have hoped. One bore has minor surface rust that is of no concern. The filth inside the motor cleaned off easily so at least wasn't baked on from a cooked motor at any point. There was a lot of clutch fibre floating around and the usual silver sparklies from the camchain getting into the rear crank cap and its bolt. There was enough bolt left to still be able to undo it with a socket. The left camchain guide was broken at the upper mounting eye.

Surprisingly for a bike that appears to have been poorly maintained on initial inspection the camshaft and sub rockers appear new. Weird but welcome. This would seem to be the nicest camshaft I have seen in one of these. :)

The crankshaft looks very nice and I'm undecided on whether to replace the main and rod bearings. While I have replacements here I'm not replacing bearings that don't need replacing just for the sake of it. I have a number of motors that yet might want them. I can find no paint marking on any of the existing bearings but the crank bearing codes are all Bs. If I can fit green rod bearings I may just replace them though. These are available along with the mystery blue rod bearings. While I'm about it I'll likely plastigauge a set of these to see where they fit on the bearing chart.

The mechanical seal fell apart when I removed the impeller but of course he'll be getting a new one regardless.

I'll finish up cleaning, checking and measuring stuff tomorrow and pick up some plastigauge through the week ready for next weekend and take a few pics in addition to the few I took today.

I should be able to start reassembling this next weekend .... and have just realised I haven't actually ordered the new clutch friction plates yet. Reminded by all the clutch dust I was. ;) But they should be here before I want them. EBC springs already in transit, and that 'A' rocker.

Have to pull the hall sensor out of the shadows motor that is sitting on the floor while the shadow is testing another motor so it will be easy to get to.

I am wondering if despite touring fairing and general appearances that maybe this thing doesn't have a huge milage. But it's hard to tell ..... it's a CX. :)
 
#22 · (Edited)
Didn't get much done today but started plastigauging bearings before I timed out. I think this crank has been ground at some point. Rod bearing journals measure evenly right across at 39.965 mm which is one thou below a C. I would expect if this was wear that the area between the rods would be larger than where the bearings run. The surface looks good.

A 'B' journal with a '2' rod should be a green bearing but this gives a 0050 thou oil clearance which is over spec. Next I will try brown bearings which at a guess will be coming into oil clearance spec .... if not I have black.

The rings were gummed into their grooves. This is why the bike woken up from long hibernation generally initially has low compression. This often sorts itself out once the motor has done a couple of hundred miles. This one's getting new rings.

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#24 ·
Didn't get much done today but started plastigauging bearings before I timed out. I think this crank has been ground at some point. Rod bearing journals measure evenly right across at 39.965 mm which is one thou below a C. I would expect if this was wear that the area between the rods would be larger than where the bearings run. The surface looks good.

A 'B' journal with a '2' rod should be a green bearing but this gives a 0050 thou oil clearance which is over spec. Next I will try brown bearings which at a guess will be coming into oil clearance spec .... if not I have black.

The rings were gummed into their grooves. This is why the bike woken up from long hibernation generally initially has low compression. This often sorts itself out once the motor has done a couple of hundred miles. This one's getting new rings.

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Interested where you are getting your rings. I saw you may have the hook up. Im interested as I think I may need some in the coming weeks. Nice work
 
#25 ·
PM jhovel regarding the rings. He has stocks at a good price.

Not much progress on the thingy today. Still cleaning parts up and stripping gaskets etc. Had to fight with the rusty head locating dowels on one side. Have been putting inox on them for a week too. Used the butt end of a drill bit in the dowel with a small pair of vice grips clamped to the dowel. Twisted the whole top off of the mongrel. Then tried to roll it up with a pin punch. No dice. So I clamped a 7 mm drill bit in the vice pointy end out this time and turned the bit into the dowel until bottomed out. Still not ready to come out so followed with a 7.5 mm drill. This time the remains of the dowel collapsed and came out. The second much the same .... only quicker. I guess the 2 on the other side I haven't done yet will be more of the same.

Will load the few pics I have when I get the camera from the shed. :)
 
#27 · (Edited)
Back at this one today, and a bit of a minor setback. The right bore in the thingys block has more corrosion than I thought on initial inspection. The hone revealed that the bore is actually damaged.

On the upside, I've dragged out a bare 82 block I've had laying around and cleaned its bores and run the hone through them and this one is pretty good with just a few small random stains so I'll transfer the guts of the 78 motor into this block. I now need to clean this block and I can maybe start to look at assembling something.

I will use the thingys crank support and transfer its front bearing ... perhaps. I have no internal mike and may take block, crank, bearing chart and bearings to my machinist to measure up and tell me which bearings to use. Alternatively, I can buy an internal mike. Need a 50mm one I guess.

The rod bearings are at least sorted. :)

Cam followers are very nice. {yet to be cleaned here ... done now.} Incidentally, the followers I pulled from the 82 block were either reconditioned with new faces or the design has changed from the earlier models. Will check part numbers at some point.

Should be able to get a few hours or so in on cleaning the block etc. tomorrow.

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#28 ·
I have a nice clean 82 block sitting on the arm of my chair so I can chase out all the threads tonight. :)

It took some cleaning. I've had to stone all the gasket faces as it had picked up a few dings floating around but all good now.

Have lopped the factory handling mounts off the front of the motor and will also file these smooth tonight.
 
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