Honda CX 500 Forum banner
501 - 520 of 997 Posts
Discussion starter · #501 ·
if you plug the other tube end then it will just come out the filter screen.........ask me how i know?
The other thought is a small bottle strapped to the spine (below the seat), then the tube from the motor feeds the bottle and the bottle has the filter breather on top, that way the oil gets trapped in the bottle

Just ideas
Oh good point hahaha. I didn't really think about that lol.
I like the bottle idea, however I don't have a lot of room left in the middle of the bike anymore due to all the wires and tubes. But you have given me some good ideas to go off of. I might try and see if I can get a hump in the tube from the headers so it drains back down into the engine, or I might end up just routing it so the oil drains out past the side of the rear tire. But something to catch the oil might be the best option.

Thanks for all the help Kam!
 
Just dump it inside the frame. Plenty of space [emoji1]

I had an oil catch can, instead of the PCV, on my turbocharged MX-5 to evac positive crankcase and valve cover pressure. That way I could avoid blow-by. Plus it caught water and other contamination that vaporized from the oil.

I wouldn't dump it to atmosphere. Your oil could harm others and the vapors make your bike very dirty!

sent via Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #503 ·
Just dump it inside the frame. Plenty of space [emoji1]

I had an oil catch can, instead of the PCV, on my turbocharged MX-5 to evac positive crankcase and valve cover pressure. That way I could avoid blow-by. Plus it caught water and other contamination that vaporized from the oil.

I wouldn't dump it to atmosphere. Your oil could harm others and the vapors make your bike very dirty!

sent via Tapatalk
LOL, the funny thing I was actually wondering about something like that :p

Oh yeah that's smart! I should probably go back and start looking at ways to change it though, as you do have a point about the vapour and oil spray.
Nothing is as simple as it seems lol.

Thanks for the advise Volaussie!
 
Discussion starter · #505 ·
OR, you could simple put the filter right at the "T" in between the motor mounts infront of or between the carbs......
You know.....I never even thought of that haha. Too simple it must've slipped my mind lol. I will have to check for clearance, but that might work the best assuming I can get the tubes pointing upwards a bit so the oil drains back down.
 
Discussion starter · #507 ·
In other news, I received my brake light in the mail, so that was exciting.
Purchased it from eBay for around $30 DRC Motoled Flex 2 Flex LED Tail Light D45 29 311 | eBay



I didn't have any time to work on the bike, but I wanted to at least test the light out and see how bright it was.
For a running light it is a little dim in the daylight, but once the brake light comes on it is actually pretty bright and should be enough to grab the attention of the person behind me (along with the other little gadget I have coming in the mail......)

Running light:



Brake Light:

 
  • Like
Reactions: Volaussie
Just dump it inside the frame. Plenty of space [emoji1]
If it were only oil in the vent lines, that would be fine, but I wouldn't want to dump all that condensed water into my frame.


R
 
Discussion starter · #509 ·
If it were only oil in the vent lines, that would be fine, but I would want to dump all that condensed water into my frame.


R
Another great point Randall! Not a good idea to mix metal and water. Along that same line, wouldn't it be a bad idea to have the vapor drip back into the engine then? Like if I did put the little pod near the top of the breathers and had it so the vapor drained back into the header tubes, would that not be good since I would theoretically be dumping small bits of water back into the engine too?
Just trying to figure out what is the best setup for the whole thing is all.
 
Along that same line, wouldn't it be a bad idea to have the vapor drip back into the engine then?
As long as it's vented, that moisture will eventually find it's way out if the engine is run long enough at operating temp.

The frame is a different matter. It never gets heated enough to cook out the moisture.


R
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motomicah
Discussion starter · #513 ·
As long as it's vented, that moisture will eventually find it's way out if the engine is run long enough at operating temp.

The frame is a different matter. It never gets heated enough to cook out the moisture.


R
Oh yeah good point! That's good to know then, maybe I will just go the route of having the pod at the top of the engine. It would be simplest and hide the pod out of site. As soon as I get a chance I will see if it fits!
Thanks for the help Randall, it's great having you and everyone else help me out along the way!
 
Remember, though, that Honda supplied a drain, and they never do anything that costs money without reason.

If you'll be taking mostly short rides, you should collect and drain the condensate.


R
 
Discussion starter · #515 ·
Remember, though, that Honda supplied a drain, and they never do anything that costs money without reason.

If you'll be taking mostly short rides, you should collect and drain the condensate.


R
The majority of my rides are fairly short so I should be fine just holding the condensation in the bottom tube and then drain it after a few rides.
But if I find that it fills up too fast and I'm cleaning it out all the time I may look at putting a little bottle in place just to get longer rides out of it before I have to drain the fluid. I have to see what kind of containers I have laying around and if I can get them to fit. I might be able to tuck it under the rear swing arm as that is where the tube currently ends.
 
Discussion starter · #516 ·
The final piece of the rear light puzzle came in the mail.

Even though the brake light I purchased is fairly bright, it doesn't hurt to have an extra bit of security in order to catch the person eyes behind you.
Hence the reason I purchased this flasher unit.
As you can see below, this thing is TINY!!! Perfect for me since I am running out of room under the seat fast, but I am pretty sure you could fit this little thing anywhere at all:



It is microprocessor controlled so there are 1000+ different combinations and styles of flashing/delays to choose from. The one reason why I chose this unit over others is because you can set a delay in between multiple brake presses so that you aren't bugging the person behind you in stop and go traffic or at night time. I will probably have a 5-10 second delay in between cycles so that any time I press the brake before then the light functions normally after the first flashing cycle. For the actual flashing I am going to mess around with different settings, but it will probably be 7 or so quick flashes and then solid brake light. Just enough to get the attention of the person behind me before they rear end me hopefully!

The way you change the different modes is based on two white wires that you touch together to toggle different settings and values. I decided to wire a button in between the two wires to make it a bit easier than simply touching the two wires together.



I will try and get it hooked up and working as soon as I can and let you guys know what I think of it.
This could also be used for the brake lights in your car, or even just the third brake light on most vehicles. A friend of mine was making his own circuit for his bike and the more I thought about it the more I realized what a good idea it was. I wanted to go with a good quality one though as the brake light is one of the most important lights on the bike and I didn't want it failing any time soon.
 
Discussion starter · #518 ·
I'm sold on that idea. Can't be too visible. Ordering one myself! Crazy how tiny stuff is getting nowadays.
My thoughts exactly! I don't want to wait until I get rear ended before doing something about it.

I found a video of a similar unit being used. It demonstrates a few of the various modes that it is capable of.


 
501 - 520 of 997 Posts