i though you found a block?

or is this the prelude to a build thread?

 

Murray, Yes and Yes I have a Block , thought I would post my findings.

 

From the scoring on the rear case It appears the impeller was installed without the steel spacer washer, and the impeller was tightened down onto the rear case.
Still no sign of the spacer washer or acorn nut I did find what I believe to be the copper washer.

Front and Rear covers off. Was happy to see internals in surprisingly good shape. All nice and clean not much sludge at all. Cam chain and auto tensioner intact though near the end of service life.

 

Backyard boneheads. They wield tools like weapons.

 

Look in hte bottom of the rad for the nut. When the nut came off on mine I found it in the water pipe :icon_redface:

 

Progress update.

Motor is finally stripped down to pieces and old block tossed on the "to be recycled" heap.
'New" block cleaned and prepped, measurements look promising for re- assembly.. Yea... finally something good.

REPLACMENT BLOCK CYLINDER DIA. (after hone)
Service limits = 3.2520
UPPER LH 3.2485 RH 3.2485
MIDDLE LH 3.2492 RH 3.2489
LOWER LH 3.2488 RH 3.2482

RING END GAPS
Service limits = .024
UPPER LH .014 RH .015
MIDDLE LH .011 RH .011
LOWER LH .009 RH .010

FRONT CRANK MAIN BEARING I.D. 1.8016” (using existing bearing in new block)
FRONT CRANK JOURNAL O.D., 1.8005
FRONT CRANK MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE = .0011, Service limits = .0033

REAR CRANK MAIN BEARING I.D. 1.8029 (using rear crank cap and bearing from old block)
REAR CRANK JOURNAL O.D. 1.8005
REAR CRANK MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE = .0024, Service limits = .0033

CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE (using green .001-.003 platigauge)
Finds both L/R to be between .0015 and .002. Service limits = .003

The Camshaft was badly pitted, so Cam shaft and lifters have been sent to Delta CamShafts in Tacoma for regrind. I'll report out on their work when done.

I was going to rebuild the heads but after further closer examination a small gouge and score line in the sealing surface could be seen. I tried more sanding but could not remove visible defect (heat crack?)

Both heads exhibit similar scoring with evidence of very high heat exposure. Not real comfortable reusing them so on the "recycle heap" they went.
A "new" set of heads will arrive in the next few days .

While I'm waiting I figured I would do some small part cleanup first on the list was the Radiator, water pipes and thermostat housing. found another surprise, this I have not seen.
And no, I have not yet found the acorn nut.

 

Murray- thought I would post a picture, After our phone conversation I wasn't absolutely sure that we understood each other.

Separating the splined end of Camshaft for regrind.

 

we are on the same page

hey slim

look here

http://cx500forum.com/forum/technical-help-forum/25176-reattaching-water-pump-shaft-camshaft.html

 

Well after 3 weeks of waiting, Delta Camshafts sent my camshaft back to me because they could not remove the splined end (required for loading in to grinding machine) stating that if I got it off and send it back they would be happy to compete the job. 2 weeks later and multiple attempts with a variety of techniques, No luck that @*%# thing is stuck good.

Just as I was giving up, a used Ebay cam shaft I has been previously watching was relisted with make-offer so I did. New shaft arrived on Friday and I was pleased to see that it was in much better condition then the pictures showed. I cleaned up the small amount of galling with a wet stone and 600 grit wet/dry sand paper, followed with a dip in the ultrasonic tank. And i'm back in in business.

Top is damaged old shaft, bottom is replacement ready to install.

Replacement Cam shaft before and after touch-up/cleanup

Another thing that just caught my eye as I was assembling the block was a bent shift shaft . I think I have a few of those in a box somewhere.

More clean up and assembly pics

 

More assembly pic. Finally making some progress.

 

Looking good man

Sent from my LG-H345 using Tapatalk

 

A little more progress,

All Cleaned up and painted, Ready for final assembly.

Getting closer to changing the Title from Dead GL650, to Dead GL650 lives again!!

 

awesome progress! go slim

 

Every time I see that orange tag tied to the clutch I remember a guy I used to know who had one of those huge REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT tags (before they started making small ones for key rings - this thing was half a yard long) that he would padlock on with his brake disc lock so that he wouldn't forget and try to drive away with the lock on again :rofl::rofl:

 

Finally have a complete motor, ready to install.
Replacement Crank case. Replaced heads, camshaft, cam-chain, stator, water pump seal and impeller, starter clutch springs and rollers, oil pump chain and a set of lower mileage valve rockers. really the only mechanical things salvaged from the original motor was the crank, rods and pistons.

Should be ready to fire it up early next week.

Before I can ride I still need to:
Rebuild front forks.
Needs new brakes all around.
New tires.
replace throttle and clutch cables.
Carbs??

I would like to hear a running engine before I throw any more $$$ into this thing.

 

Nice work Slim!

You are doing great!

 

Dead 650 lives again!!!

Finally, got some time after the Christmas holiday to spend some time out in the shed.
Finished the engine install, repaired and cleaned up some wiring issues, Rewired the hacked up cooling fan circuit, installed new temp switch. installed radiator.
Cranked motor until oil light went out - repeated until oil could be seen seeping out around valve rockers.
Checked for spark - Yes!!
Hooked up Temp fuel tank and opened float bowl drains to check for fuel flow and to flush fuel system.
Gave each cylinder a shot of starting fluid prior to installing plugs.

Hit the starter button and she fired up instantly and surprisingly quickly settled down into a fairly regular idle.

Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to post a video :vs_greis:

 

good job enjoy the bike

 

Nice work! Let me (or other mod) know and we can update the title, if you wish.

 

In the last week or so I have run the motor for about 1 ½ hours. Starts easily with no unusual sounds.

Voltage is a bit high I’ll need to keep an eye on this. I used the cheap Caltric stator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-Fit...New-Magneto/270980832249?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Carbs are balanced nicely so I wont touch.

New fan switch and wiring are working fine, some Po had cut the wiring to the fan and installed a on/off switch in the fairing but had run the wire near the exhaust and was all melted together.
Temp gauge is working after cleanup of connectors.
Thermostat housing has developed a little drip so I will need to pull and check it out, No leaks from the new water pump seal.

So Next on the agenda is to replace the rotten tires and get her rolling again,

I used new Shinko 712’s
Cleaned and Serviced the rear end, drive spline in perfect condition, installed two new O-rings.
Serviced rear brake actually looks very good not much crud, plenty of life on the existing brake shoes.
Front brakes were sticking so I disassembled calipers, other than some crud on the pistons all looked good.
Cleaned and Re-assembled, new pads, flushed out old brake fluid, bled the system.

 

14.43V isn't high. The FSM says 14.0-15.0 and that's just about in the middle.

 

Thanks Bob, thought it look a bit on the high side for idle output.

After putting the exhaust and foot pegs back on I just couldn't help myself, Even though the road was muddy and a little mist was falling I had to take it out for a short spin down the road and back.
:vs_wheelie::vs_wheelie::vs_wheelie:
Clutch is nice and smooth shifted through all the gears, nice acceleration:thumbsup: it did have a bit of exhaust popping on deceleration, so looks like i'll be digging into the carbs soon. but i'll wait until I get her all back together and put a few miles on to shake out some other bugs.

Anyway i'm feeling much better about this little project and can see the end of the tunnel now.
On with final assembly.

 

On a complete bike I would expect the charging system voltage to be a bit lower at idle but you don't have a headlight connected do you?

 

Yes Bob you are correct, no lights of any type were working at the time.

She's all back together now with all the important mechanical issues solved. I managed to take her out on a short (15 mile) shake down run and ran flawlessly.
I still need to tend to a number of cosmetic things but it's turning out to be a very nice bike.

 

Congrats on bringing it back to life. You have a few months of winter to refinish the rear bags and before you get it reassembled to clean and touch up any frame paint that will see weather and needs clean up because of rust or scrapes, etc. Having gone through the motor you know the condition, so, no need to worry about it. If the carbs have air cutoff valves you can put new ones in to fix popping deceleration problem, or spend some good money to fit a pair of Murray's Mikuni carbs to unleash a little extra hp.

 

on the issue of popping also make sure your exhaust joints are all sealed that can cause it to